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First time to Thailand

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Removed User 18 Jan 2018

Hello everyone. 

 

Me and my wife are heading out to Thailand in February for 2 weeks. 

We've climbed outside in Yangshuo,China but never in Thailand. 

We were planning on heading north form Bangkok up to an area called Nam Pha Payai and staying there for 4 days or so. Has anyone there climbed in that area?

 

Then flying down to Krabi to check out the famous Railiey area!

Any suggestions as to where to Base ourselves down there? 

 

What are the climbs like? 

We're fairly new to leading, been leading indoors for a year but this will be our first time officially leading outside and think I will pick up a guide for a day at the beginning to feel comfortable. 

I've been practicing threading the rope at the top of the walls indoors so am happy with that. But am fully aware it's v different outside!!

 tim000 18 Jan 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

cant comment on the climbing , but stayed in railay beach area in march and found a great resort called avatar . nice place with great rooms . even had a double bed on the balcony  https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g1597036-d7910942-Reviews-Avatar...

 Ian Dunn 19 Jan 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

Hi NPPY is fantastic with a great range of routes across the grades. Approach to the main cliff is a zip wire as is the return but it's quite fun and makes for a quick trip back to the campsite for lunch! Joy who runs the campsite is very friendly and the food is great. If you want more sophisticated accommodation there is a Spa resort about 7km away with air conditioned chalets swimming pool etc etc.

For the south I have always stayed in Ao Nang and just travelled in by boat each day as staying on Tonsai will often result in Tonsai tummy which can lead to a couple of days feeling ill or worse. The boat isn't expensive and at least you have a great choice of eating establishments that have running water and good sanitation. I have never been ill staying there and not eating or drinking on the peninsular. 

 1234None 19 Jan 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

There are lots of options in the Krabi area.  These days I find Railay/Tonsai a bit too busy and spoiled - almost completely devoid of authentic Thai culture.  Having said that, the climbing is great at some of the crags.  I especially like the Keep, Hidden Wall, Cat Wall and Wild Kingdom/The Nest.  Where to stay  depends what you are looking for, really.   If you want to just be in Railay then there are plenty of places If you want to escape the crowds, here is a great place in the jungle quite close to Railay called Chong Pli/Spirit Mountain with superb climbing and bungalows just under the crag.  I usually stay there these days, and if I want to head over to Railay/Tonsai it's easy to take a boat from Ao Nang or Ao Nammao.  It takes < 1 hour to get over to either Railay or Tonsai and it's a fairly chilled, pleasant journey on a rented moped and a longtail boat. I would also recommend spending a few days on Koh Yao Noi as the climbing and cultural experience there are both amazing.  Also a great little adventure riding from Chong Pli to Ao Thalane on the moped, then lifting the moped onto the boat and taking it across.  Spirit Mtn bungalows are run by an Italian guy, and he/his staff should be able to help you with moped rental and info for boats etc.

Chong Phli

Removed User 20 Jan 2018
In reply to 1234None:

That's great info PeakDJ, thanks. 

Reading a bit more about Tongan area, I think we will head towards Ao nang  or most probably on Koh Yah Noi.

 

 cwarby 20 Jan 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

I'll second koh yah noi. When I went TheMountainshop were helpful; even used them as a guide one day to Grateful wall. Got wind of access issues, so a bit of planning may be good. Rumour was that because the owners of TMS were Canadian the Thai park person made life hard. Hope that's wrong as its a fantastic place.

Chris

Removed User 24 Jan 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

So I've just read these in regards to access on yah noi. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/climbing_banned_in_thailand's_koh_yao...

Only written a year ago, hoping it hasn't got out of control and we can still climb there. 

Removed User 24 Jan 2018
In reply to Ian Dunn:

Unfortunately looks like our plan is changing and we won't be able to make it to NPPY. 

Will have to head back there on another visit  now. 

Removed User 24 Jan 2018
In reply to 1234None:

Do you know if we are OK to climb at Chong  Phli if not staying ta his place? Presumably yes, just wanted to check 

We staying outside Ao Nang and looking forward to some time exploring on the moped, like the sound of taken it on the boat over to the islands! 

 1234None 24 Jan 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

Yes - anyone can climb at Chong Pli.  Enjoy!

 

Re the climbing on Koh Yao, it is still OK to climb at the Mitt and a few of the other crags - but the park officials took down the wooden platform under the Gratefull Wall.  

 1234None 24 Jan 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

The bike trip over to Koh Yao is fun - a goo chance to see "real Southern Thailand" after some time in Ao Nang or Railay!   The ride to Ao Thalane takes you past some great scenery and you will be astonished at the amount of easily-accessible undeveloped rock. The island itself is awesome.  Once on Koh Yao Noi you can also take a boat from the Manoh pier across to Koh Yao Yai (the bigger sister island).  It's worth the trip over.  When you come off the boat on Yao Yai follow the dirt road round the West side of the island to access some great hidden beaches.  The road can get pretty rough in places, but it's fun!  Enjoy...

Removed User 04 Feb 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

All set now! Just been reading the latest King Climbers guidebook, getting some info on the local area ready for next week! 

7 days time we’ll be in Ao Nang! 

 

I have a question about the guidbook terminology, on the route description it says “5 bolts, 3 threads”

 

what does it mean by threads?

Post edited at 10:39
 1234None 04 Feb 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

It means a natural or drilled "hole" in the rock, which a length of rope is passed through, then tied into a loop to act as a piece of in-situ protection.  Very common on some routes (especially some of the big multi-pitch adventures) due to the heavily featured nature of the rock out there.  As the titanium bolts used out there are v expensive to place, it's cheaper to place threads when equipping routes, and they can then be replaced fairly cheaply when required.

Removed User 04 Feb 2018
In reply to 1234None:

Ok, I guessed it would be something like from searching through a few pictures. So presumably I will just clip a QuickDraw into the thread loop and carry on as normal. 

 1234None 05 Feb 2018
In reply to Removed UserJim25:

>  So presumably I will just clip a QuickDraw into the thread loop and carry on as normal. 

 

Exactly...enjoy the trip.  If you go to Chong Pli and bump into a guy called Mike, tell him Dave says Hi!

I am not sure if the crag is in your guide, but if you want a good day out away from the crowds, climbing some excellent lower grade routes, check out the Bat Cave.  Best way to get there is to ride to Ao Nammao and leave the bike at the end of the road after passing the "Heaven 7" resort (you can't miss the weirdness of this place and it is marked on Google Maps!)  At low tide you can then wade around the coast back towards Railay.  After 10-15 mins of wading (care required as slippy rocks) you will arrive at a deserted beach.  Ignore the badly protected routes on the beach and follow a small trail back into the jungle at the right side of the beach for 100m or so until you see some routes - mostly protected by the aforementioned threads - on the overhanging walls.  The 4 routes look unfeasibly steep for their grades (6b - 6b - 6a+ - 6a from L-R from memory).  There are also some great caves behind the crag that you can explore by climbing up onto a ledge just back from the beach and then squirming through various holes and passageways until you pop out on top of the crag.  Fantastic fun and some of the steepest, juggiest 6s you will ever climb! 

 


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