UKC

/ Fontainebleau + Multipitch Sport?

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dwji - on 14 Jun 2018

I'll be in Fontainebleau in mid-July for around a week and am looking to hopefully get a day of multipitch sport climbing in as well to break up all the bouldering (and hopefully give joints a bit of a rest, ha).

Does anyone have any recommendations for multipitch sport within an hour or two drive from font? Looking for a climb with a grade no higher than 5.10

Not even sure if there's anything in that range, but would appreciate the help!

Thanks.

Paz - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:

I don't think there's any sport climbing at all that close to font, let alone multi pitch.  It's still an hour from Paris.  France is pretty big.  Read a map.

There's stuff in Belgium and in Le Massif Centrale and Dordougne, but they're all at least 4 or 5 even more hours drive away surely?

4
Sl@te Head - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:

Check out Burgandy, not that far from Font.

Paz - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Nice one.  I had no idea.  I stand corrected.

Neil R - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:there is also Freyr in Belgium which has multi pitch climbs. About 3 1/2 hours from Paris. 

tmawer - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:

Le Saussois may be worth looking at. From memory mostly larger single pitch but some multi I think. 

deacondeacon - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to Paz:.  France is pretty big.  Read a map.

Patronising, much? Lol

Saussois is where its at. About 80 minutes from Font, very good crag and better than most you'll get in the UK (although I guess you're from elsewhere if mentioning 5.10). It's single pitch really but great rock covering just about every grade. Don't think they've got a 9a but the grades go from beginner level to high 8s.

 

 

Paz - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to deacondeacon:

Yep.  And like I said, I called it wrong.  I'm liking all these suggestions even if they're a little more than an hour away

GrahamD - on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:

Heading South would be my choice, but Clecy in Haute Normandy might also appeal.

Trangia on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:

There is a bolted little cliff at Glandelles (south of Namours). Never been there but it's in the "Fountainbleau - escalades et randonnees" guide book. There are bout 20 routes of about 6 to 8 metres shown on the line drawing graded F to AD. including a high level traverse. 6 mousquetons (QDs) recommended for the routes and 10 for the traverse. Recommends 20m of rope.

I've often wondered if it's worth a visit?

nniff - on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:

Saussois is the closest big crag to Paris.  It's stinking hot in the summer and polished as hell, because that's where the Parisiens have been going for years.  Just south of Auxerre

Adrien - on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to Trangia:

No! Scruffy, dirty, mossy limestone covered in cobwebs. The routes are less than 10m and there's very few of them. It's pretty much only used by local clubs to brush up rope techniques and the like before heading off to the hills/mountains come spring/summer.

Trangia on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to Adrien:

Thanks for that Adrien, I'll avoid a wasted journey and stick to the Forest

Carless - on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to dwji:

The nearest roped climbing to Bleau is on an old viaduct - Viaduc des Fauvettes. No multipitch tho

https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/102840/fr/viaduc-des-fauvettes

next nearest is Saussois & Parc near Merry-sur-Yonne

almost no multi either

and for something completely different, try the chalk cliffs near les Andelys

RR on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to Neil R:

Freyr = polished as ... There is even a route called Little Soap (la savonette). The harder routes are ok. E4 and up.


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