/ Frankenjura routes and van camping tips!

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
Haf42 - on 15 Apr 2019

hallo! Heading to Frankenjura for a week over easter in my camper.

Anyone been before got recommendations for camping spots? Any climber hang outs? Good pubs and good routes? 

Thank you!!

Haf 

Report
minty1984 on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

I stayed at Campingplatz Betzenstein for 10 days a few years ago. There are one or 2 crags within cycling distance and loads within 30 mins drive. Nice walks and cycling routes for rest days too.

Be aware of some of the bolting! many older routes, especially in the lower grades may only have 2 or 3 bolts in a 20m route! Also many lower offs are from a single staple! A bit of trad gear and some slings is quite useful

I cannot recall the exact crags I visited but if you buy the frakenjura guide it is in English and very well written.

Report
Haf42 - on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to minty1984:

Thank you for the tips! I speak German, so will probably buy the guide book(s) when I arrive. Camp site looks ideal!

Any route recommendations? Also good to know on the bolting, thank you! Will take a rack with me for sure. What's the rock quality like? Did you do any bouldering there? I'm half thinking to take some mats with for maybe a half day if it's doable. 

Report
minty1984 on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

No probs. Speaking German will be a big help!

The rock quality was mostly sound for the few crags I visited. I don't remember any chossy messes at all really! I will have a look through my guide book and see if I can jog my memory of the crags I went to and then I can give you some route recommendations

I did not try any bouldering at all. I am not a massive fan so I cant offer any advise there

Report
cb294 - on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

There is some bouldering, but single pitch route climbing is the main thing. Has been a while, though, for me., and I never was much of a boulderer, so things may have changed.  If you have space in the van, you could take the pads up to Klagemauer, more of a boulder than a route crag, and with some classic Güllich routes on it!

Betzenstein is a good place to stay and explore the crags of Trubach valley, all within in half an hour or so by car and more than enough stuff for a week. No idea about the camping, though, as it is only 20 km or so from my parent's place.

You could also go east across the Berlin motorway to Hersbrucker Schweiz, which may be an option if the Trubach valley crags are too crowded over the holidays proper (including Easter Monday).  

Importantly, don't forget to stop at the small breweries in the area: Penning Zeissler in Hetzelsdorf, Meister in Unterzaunsbach,  Lindenbräu and Friedmann in Gräfenberg, and Hofmann in Hohenschwärz are all just a few km away from the Trubach crags!

Frankenjura.com is also a useful resource for planning.

As a shit weather alternative I would spend a day visiting Bamberg.

CB

Report
Neil R - on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

For northern Frankenjura there is the campsite at Barenchluctwande. Search on UKC for Destination Guide: Frankenjura - Limestone in the Limelight. Crag on the campsite and one across the road. Numerous others close by. 

Report
Kemics - on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

Im pretty sure i stayed at Oma Eichler's campsite which seemed to be a good hub for climbers. I was traveling on my own and found it easy to meet people to climb with and play table tennis/drink beer

I cant recommend any particular routes. I felt frankjura was good throughout but no where was truly great. Like most routes were good 1 or 2 star routes but none felt 3 star mega classic...or maybe i just went to the wrong areas 

Edit: actually Seifertriss was pretty good

Post edited at 17:09
Report
LeeWood - on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

What grades are you climbing ? A mate over there recently projected Rayando El Sol 7a - seemed to have got VFM ;) 

edit: sector Student

Post edited at 18:27
Report
HansStuttgart - on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

campings:

Oma Eichler

Morschreuth

Kleinziegenfeld

Routes:

everything opened by Kurt Albert or Wolfgang Güllich. Climb the classics!

Report
Jonathan Emett - on 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

There are plenty of low-profile van-spots about too, if you don't want to be on a campsite all the time. The eichler one in the north is a bigger site than the southern one. 

Report
Haf42 - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to LeeWood:

Yeah I'm climbing 7a, pojecting 7b/c! Plan on this trip is to get a good few 7as under the belt, So this sounds awesome thanks for the recommendations! 

Report
Haf42 - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to Jonathan Emett:

Awesome. Plan would be to stay mostly not in a camp site, then dip in for maybe one or two nights for the showers. Figured with forest would be able to find spots, but a lot of the pictures look like villages / quite exposed. 

Report
MischaHY - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

Naah you'll be fine van camping and everybody does it. Great thing is that in Germany it's legal so no stress. Obviously if someone asks you to move on then do so but it's highly unlikely unless you park on someones driveway or something. 

We'll be there this weekend, see you about ;-) 

Report
jimtitt - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

> Naah you'll be fine van camping and everybody does it. Great thing is that in Germany it's legal so no stress. Obviously if someone asks you to move on then do so but it's highly unlikely unless you park on someones driveway or something. 

> We'll be there this weekend, see you about ;-) 


I´d have bothered to read the law before telling people that! It varies from land to land, some it´s absolutely prohibited and some it´s allowed to some extent. In Bavaria bivouaking is allowed but tents (and motorhomes) not.

The climbing in the Frankenjura is anyway in the Naturepark Frankische Schweitz-Veldenstainer Forst and wild camping of any sort is absolutely prohibited;- "auf anderen als hierfür behördlich zugelassenen Plätzen zu zelten, Wohnwagen abzustellen, dies zu gestatten, oder im Rahmen der Erholungsnutzung offene Feuer zu entzünden oder zu unterhalten," (BayRS 791-5-14-U).

In parking spots it´s tolerated to a certain extent, forest tracks, fields and field entrances etc it isn´t and sometimes there are clampdowns.

Report
TheGeneralist - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to Haf42:

In terms of good routes, I'll do my usual shout out for Fichtelgebirge. Lovely granite sparsely bolted crags with some real 3* routes.

Been climbing in the frankische for 25 years and still think the Fichtels are better for anyone not into 7a plus pocket pulling.

Report
cb294 - on 16 Apr 2019

In reply to floratysa:

What grades?

CB

Report
Haf42 - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to TheGeneralist:

> In terms of good routes, I'll do my usual shout out for Fichtelgebirge. Lovely granite sparsely bolted crags with some real 3* routes

Thank you! Sounds sweet and looks epic online! As long as I dont end up on a sparsely bolted granite slab I'm happy. 

Report
AlanLittle - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to TheGeneralist:

> Fichtelgebirge

On my to-do list. How do the Bayerischer Wald crags compare?

Report
jimtitt - on 16 Apr 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

I'd say they are both equally worth visiting. Once.

The climbing style is different though, the Bayerische Wald routes are more cracks and fingery face stuff, Fichtelgebirge kinda big jugs and rounded horizontals.

Report
MischaHY - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to jimtitt:

Eh, that was my partners interpretation of the law - she's German so I guess has an idea. In practice we both know people park and sleep in the marked lay-bys on the daily and have zero issues so I don't see the point in misleading the guy. Obviously anyone parking in a field entrance or on a restricted Waldweg etc is being an idiot. 

Cheers for the lecture though. 

Report
TheGeneralist - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to jimtitt:

"Once"

Ho hum. Vive La Unterschied! 

Bayreuther Weg, Holzkeilriss, Kassette,Nordverschneidung, Dresdner Stollen are all stunning routes. Definitely worth more than one trip. 

Report
TheGeneralist - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Only been to one crag in BW: Rauchrohren. Had an amazing tripcamping in the cave with wife and kids. The main difference is rock type... granite versus Schist (i think)

Did some good route a BW, but none stick in my mind like the stuff on Rauberfelsen Nordseite.

Report
TheGeneralist - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to jimtitt:

Actually, i should caveat what i said. Ruaberfelsen is by far the standout grag. Manyof the minor crags are indeed only worth one trip.

Report
jimtitt - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

We don't have the right to climb in the park, we are permitted to after long and difficult negotiations. I am less than enthusiatic about risking acces to my local area to save someone the price of a campsite.

Report
dominic o - on 08:27 Sat
In reply to Haf42:

Another +1 vote for Camping Eichler - I can't believe we're over 20 replies in and no one has mentioned Martha's CAKE yet! A winning post-climb combo with a heffer-weisser. It's also the perfect spot to meet climbing partners and pick up beta.

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/09/07/frankenjura-hoher-reute/

Report
AlanLittle - on 08:45 Sat
In reply to jimtitt:

Particularly given that the campsites are generally both cheap and good

Report

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.