/ Frankenjura routes and van camping tips!
hallo! Heading to Frankenjura for a week over easter in my camper.
Anyone been before got recommendations for camping spots? Any climber hang outs? Good pubs and good routes?
I stayed at Campingplatz Betzenstein for 10 days a few years ago. There are one or 2 crags within cycling distance and loads within 30 mins drive. Nice walks and cycling routes for rest days too.
Be aware of some of the bolting! many older routes, especially in the lower grades may only have 2 or 3 bolts in a 20m route! Also many lower offs are from a single staple! A bit of trad gear and some slings is quite useful
I cannot recall the exact crags I visited but if you buy the frakenjura guide it is in English and very well written.
Thank you for the tips! I speak German, so will probably buy the guide book(s) when I arrive. Camp site looks ideal!
Any route recommendations? Also good to know on the bolting, thank you! Will take a rack with me for sure. What's the rock quality like? Did you do any bouldering there? I'm half thinking to take some mats with for maybe a half day if it's doable.
No probs. Speaking German will be a big help!
The rock quality was mostly sound for the few crags I visited. I don't remember any chossy messes at all really! I will have a look through my guide book and see if I can jog my memory of the crags I went to and then I can give you some route recommendations
I did not try any bouldering at all. I am not a massive fan so I cant offer any advise there
There is some bouldering, but single pitch route climbing is the main thing. Has been a while, though, for me., and I never was much of a boulderer, so things may have changed. If you have space in the van, you could take the pads up to Klagemauer, more of a boulder than a route crag, and with some classic Güllich routes on it!
Betzenstein is a good place to stay and explore the crags of Trubach valley, all within in half an hour or so by car and more than enough stuff for a week. No idea about the camping, though, as it is only 20 km or so from my parent's place.
You could also go east across the Berlin motorway to Hersbrucker Schweiz, which may be an option if the Trubach valley crags are too crowded over the holidays proper (including Easter Monday).
Importantly, don't forget to stop at the small breweries in the area: Penning Zeissler in Hetzelsdorf, Meister in Unterzaunsbach, Lindenbräu and Friedmann in Gräfenberg, and Hofmann in Hohenschwärz are all just a few km away from the Trubach crags!
Frankenjura.com is also a useful resource for planning.
As a shit weather alternative I would spend a day visiting Bamberg.
For northern Frankenjura there is the campsite at Barenchluctwande. Search on UKC for Destination Guide: Frankenjura - Limestone in the Limelight. Crag on the campsite and one across the road. Numerous others close by.
Im pretty sure i stayed at Oma Eichler's campsite which seemed to be a good hub for climbers. I was traveling on my own and found it easy to meet people to climb with and play table tennis/drink beer
I cant recommend any particular routes. I felt frankjura was good throughout but no where was truly great. Like most routes were good 1 or 2 star routes but none felt 3 star mega classic...or maybe i just went to the wrong areas
Edit: actually Seifertriss was pretty good
What grades are you climbing ? A mate over there recently projected Rayando El Sol 7a - seemed to have got VFM ;)
edit: sector Student
everything opened by Kurt Albert or Wolfgang Güllich. Climb the classics!
There are plenty of low-profile van-spots about too, if you don't want to be on a campsite all the time. The eichler one in the north is a bigger site than the southern one.
Yeah I'm climbing 7a, pojecting 7b/c! Plan on this trip is to get a good few 7as under the belt, So this sounds awesome thanks for the recommendations!
Awesome. Plan would be to stay mostly not in a camp site, then dip in for maybe one or two nights for the showers. Figured with forest would be able to find spots, but a lot of the pictures look like villages / quite exposed.
Naah you'll be fine van camping and everybody does it. Great thing is that in Germany it's legal so no stress. Obviously if someone asks you to move on then do so but it's highly unlikely unless you park on someones driveway or something.
We'll be there this weekend, see you about ;-)
> Naah you'll be fine van camping and everybody does it. Great thing is that in Germany it's legal so no stress. Obviously if someone asks you to move on then do so but it's highly unlikely unless you park on someones driveway or something.
> We'll be there this weekend, see you about ;-)
I´d have bothered to read the law before telling people that! It varies from land to land, some it´s absolutely prohibited and some it´s allowed to some extent. In Bavaria bivouaking is allowed but tents (and motorhomes) not.
The climbing in the Frankenjura is anyway in the Naturepark Frankische Schweitz-Veldenstainer Forst and wild camping of any sort is absolutely prohibited;- "auf anderen als hierfür behördlich zugelassenen Plätzen zu zelten, Wohnwagen abzustellen, dies zu gestatten, oder im Rahmen der Erholungsnutzung offene Feuer zu entzünden oder zu unterhalten," (BayRS 791-5-14-U).
In parking spots it´s tolerated to a certain extent, forest tracks, fields and field entrances etc it isn´t and sometimes there are clampdowns.
In terms of good routes, I'll do my usual shout out for Fichtelgebirge. Lovely granite sparsely bolted crags with some real 3* routes.
Been climbing in the frankische for 25 years and still think the Fichtels are better for anyone not into 7a plus pocket pulling.
In reply to floratysa:
> In terms of good routes, I'll do my usual shout out for Fichtelgebirge. Lovely granite sparsely bolted crags with some real 3* routes
Thank you! Sounds sweet and looks epic online! As long as I dont end up on a sparsely bolted granite slab I'm happy.
On my to-do list. How do the Bayerischer Wald crags compare?
I'd say they are both equally worth visiting. Once.
The climbing style is different though, the Bayerische Wald routes are more cracks and fingery face stuff, Fichtelgebirge kinda big jugs and rounded horizontals.
Eh, that was my partners interpretation of the law - she's German so I guess has an idea. In practice we both know people park and sleep in the marked lay-bys on the daily and have zero issues so I don't see the point in misleading the guy. Obviously anyone parking in a field entrance or on a restricted Waldweg etc is being an idiot.
Cheers for the lecture though.
Ho hum. Vive La Unterschied!
Bayreuther Weg, Holzkeilriss, Kassette,Nordverschneidung, Dresdner Stollen are all stunning routes. Definitely worth more than one trip.
Only been to one crag in BW: Rauchrohren. Had an amazing tripcamping in the cave with wife and kids. The main difference is rock type... granite versus Schist (i think)
Did some good route a BW, but none stick in my mind like the stuff on Rauberfelsen Nordseite.
Actually, i should caveat what i said. Ruaberfelsen is by far the standout grag. Manyof the minor crags are indeed only worth one trip.
We don't have the right to climb in the park, we are permitted to after long and difficult negotiations. I am less than enthusiatic about risking acces to my local area to save someone the price of a campsite.
Another +1 vote for Camping Eichler - I can't believe we're over 20 replies in and no one has mentioned Martha's CAKE yet! A winning post-climb combo with a heffer-weisser. It's also the perfect spot to meet climbing partners and pick up beta.
Particularly given that the campsites are generally both cheap and good
Niky Ceria has bouldered at a world-class level for several years, although he cares less about the arbitrary number attached to the rock and more about aesthetics, movement and history. UK readers will remember Niky as the man who made the 2nd ascent...