UKC

I'll be meeting my brother, pretty much a non climber (although he has done a little bit in the past), in Abersoch.  As an option, we'd like to do a spot of climbing.  Obviously places like Tremadog and other inland venues are easily driveable, but I was wondering whether there are any worthwhile, amenable options near Abersoch for a day ?

'Worthwhile' meaning relatively solid, clean rock with decent outlook and nice climbing and 'amenable' meaning up to VS / 5c max with walk in access (I'm rusty and brother is not massively experienced).

I have the 2002 Lleyn guide (with Fantan B its only tick to date) and its hard to gauge from the text the quality and trustworthiness of some of the venues !

Not particularly unless you like bouldering. There is some newish sport climbing at  Tyddyn Hywel Quarry

New guidebook on the way I think, but possibly not that helpful for a trip soonish.

Cheers.  I guess we can look at the quarries then head to Tremadog !

Porth Ysgo bouldering is awesome. Nice spot, nice climbing, good range of grades and styles, plenty of good landings as well as some shockers!

Thanks, but I'm hoping to get a couple of routes in with brother.   Sounds like somewhere for a solo visit though.

Barmouth Slabs

might suit?

Cheers.  Have to admit I was a bit underwhelmed by Barmouth slabs when I last visited - if we have to drive anywhere I suspect we'll end up at Tremadog.

Very close by, the far quarry at  Ty'n Tywyn Quarries has some good quality slabs in your range. Exlax is a good one to start but you can vary the line widely at a similar standard. There isn't loads of protection - boreholes and old stakes mostly - but it does tend to be where you need it, and the rock is good and the slabs easy angled. Nice spot, look out for adders at the top. You can get a great look at the line with none other than Bear Grylls and Kate Winslet abseiling down it here: youtube.com/watch?v=M5btGbNXymU&.

Or a bit further there are some short grit style climbs at Mynydd y Graig, it's written up as bouldering but there are easy trad lines too. Bonus of probably the best view in Wales, bliss on a clear May evening.

There are some easy lines on the north-west end of Cilan but they're bird-banned until August. The stuff further south is not all death-choss either, there are some much less committing single-pitch bits with fairly normal rock like Silence of the Clams (VS 4c).

Cheers ! That's useful info.

I'd have thought that - given your brother's background - somewhere quietish might work. What about Craig y Clipiau near Ffestiniog?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/craig_y_clipiau_moelwyns-865#overv...

A far better option than Barmouth Slabs too

Cheers.  It's a nice crag.  There are a few plan Bs in the Moelwyns.