UKC

I am going to Lundy for a few days the end of August and want some advice about what gear to take.

I have a rack (set of nuts, 3 mid sized cams, QDs, slings, etc) and a 60m single rope, but don't know what I will need for Lundy.

Is there anything that will be useful? Ab rope? If so how Long? Half ropes? micro-nuts? spare belay plate? etc?

I dont know if it helps or not, but I would like to be have lead a VS or 2 before I go. I am looking for some advice now so I have time to save up for it!

In reply to dsgarner: I've never been but for the long routes (and getting to them) half ropes might be a better shoice. Maybe take a spare belay device to leave in the cupboard in case but also learn to use an italian hitch to get you back safe if you do drop yours.

In reply to dsgarner:

You don’t need anything out of the ordinary. The previous poster’s suggestion of a spare belay device between the party for the week is probably the best Lundy-specific precaution. A static abseil rope is convenient if you have it, but not essential.

The island is definitely better at VS and above, but there’s probably enough to go at at Severe. The most likely trauma in my experience will arise from failing to find the right crag/route and/or access it in a competent manner, but there’s not much to be done about that in terms of equipment.

jcm

In reply to dsgarner:

You don’t need anything out of the ordinary. The previous poster’s suggestion of a spare belay device between the party for the week is probably the best Lundy-specific precaution. A static abseil rope is convenient if you have it, but not essential.

The island is definitely better at VS and above, but there’s probably enough to go at at Severe. The most likely trauma in my experience will arise from failing to find the right crag/route and/or access it in a competent manner, but there’s not much to be done about that in terms of equipment.

jcm

In reply to dsgarner:

Walkie talkies always handy

In reply to Ava Adore: seconded... we have brought some in advance of our trip to lundy this year. Not essential, but bloody useful if its windy.

In reply to dsgarner:

For my 5th trip, I'll be again taking walking talkies and a 100m static ab rope. Didn't take the 100m ab rope last time and regretted it! It makes a lot of things a lot easier.

Spare belay device is a good idea!

I also take wet suits and snorkelling gear for wet days!

I'll also be there in August, see you in the tavern!

In reply to dsgarner: More cams are useful if you can find them, just because they are so solid in the lundy granite!

In reply to willworkforfoodjnr:

Bobbins. Just take a normal rack and you'll be fine. A spare rope to abseil with is definitely useful. Even a 50m single would make getting to a lot of the routes a bit easier.

In reply to dsgarner: If possible definitely take a spare belay plate, you don't and you'll need it, sods law. On a similar note, some paper or camera to save dropping your guide book, they can be slippery too! Plenty of slings or tat/cord for ab's, 7m of 6/7mm should suffice for most boulders.

An Ab rope will help reduce the mental commitment as on any sea cliff. In case you're leaving an ab with anything other than convenience for access, then understand how to self rescue. A measured pair of prussic will make life a lot easier.

I'd also take a black bin bag, I was tipped to stash the bags at various points. Saves a bit of lugging and you can get to the pub quicker. Again when I went it was nesting season, very quiet, yes lots of crags closed, but lots open and more than a weeks worth at VS alone.

Enjoy it!

In reply to dsgarner:

I would agree that a spare belay device is very sound advice and that a 'normal' rack is fine. I have always preferred halfropes but thats what I'm used to. Up to VS/HVS micros aren't really that beneficial.

A dedicated abseil rope is convenient and to that I'd add a very long sling (mine is just made from inexpensive tape knotted with a water knot) for rigging it to convenient cliff top boulders

The path around the island tends to be a fair way above the cliff tops and you will find yourself slogging up and down a hundred metres or more of grass slope between butresses - if you carry too much, you'll know about it !

In reply to GrahamD: ' The path around the island tends to be a fair way above the cliff tops and you will find yourself slogging up and down a hundred metres or more of grass slope between butresses - if you carry too much, you'll know about it '.

Damn right.....After a week of slogging up and down those slopes I was pretty fit. Although the Westerly gales did tend to help on the way up

In reply to ColinD:

Stashing bags around the half way wall is a nice trick! Although I did forget exactly where I left them once which made for a rather unhappy girlfriend while we searched...

In reply to dsgarner:

I would second previous comments about spare belay device and, if possible, abseil rope and half ropes.

Other things:
- does your partner have a rack as well? if not then maybe think about a second set of nuts. I also have a set of DMM alloy offsets that worked really well with the granite.

- Prusik loops!

- Check the tides and don't understimate how quickly it comes in.

We went last Sep and had a great time, fantastic place.

In reply to dsgarner:

Do you have a rucksack into which your whole rope will fit? It's just that if the ferry crossing is rough and there is vomit and your rope is outside your rucksack and gets covered in it.....

In reply to dsgarner:

One thing I haven't seen mentioned
Keep your climbing gear in a sac with you on the boat
That way you can go climbing as soon as you arrive

The boat "hold" baggage gets delivered to your accom later on

Static ab rope definitely useful but not crucial

Thanks for the advice! I might be doing some more sea cliff climbing couple of weeks before I go, so might invest in an ab rope or half ropes. By the sounds of things, they will make life a bit easier.

I will get a 2nd belay device, but other than that, I will just have to make sure that I get out on the rock a bit before I go and try to get into the VSs!

Thanks again!

In reply to dsgarner:
A can of WD-40.
Steve

In reply to dsgarner:

Agree with the suggestion to bring a can of WD-40 although if you ask the shopkeeper or warden, they usually have a can of WD-40 in the back of the shop which they'll be happy to lend to you.

I'd definitely bring extra gear as you won't be able to buy e.g. a spare belay plate if you drop it.

In reply to dsgarner:


It might be worth taking a spare belay plate, in case you drop yours.

In reply to dsgarner:

Second set of nuts essential IMO. You'll need some to setup ab anchors/belays etc.

Have a snoop about other parties on the island whhen you are there. You could get away without an ab rope if there are other teams in town who are willing to 4-up.

In reply to Bruise Apprentice:

WD40 is a bit OTT IMO - anything seizing up in the few days one is there can be freed up fit a drop of cooking oil, worst comes to the worst.