UKC

/ "Grooving" in Lofoten?

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BTreanor - on 07 Jun 2018

Hey folks. I'm an Californian climber, but check in on UKC for news fairly often. My family and I will be spending the summer in Europe, and I've got a question about the Lofoten area. My guess is that many more UKC folks will be familiar with the area compared to US climbers. 

I may have other questions at some point, but right now I am looking at the guidebook and have a question about terminology, which I am raising simply to facilitate orientation and routefinding. The Rockfax Lofoten guidebook uses the term "groove" pretty frequently, but not, I think, as I'd normally use that term. Looking at a few of the routes, I am guessing that "groove" means "corner." That is, where many other guidebooks would say "follow the shallow, left-facing (or right-facing) corner" the Lofoten guidebook says "follow the groove." The reason I don't simply accept this (i.e., the reason I am asking the question) is that other places in the guidebook it does specific "left-facing corner" or "right-facing corner." This popped into my head looking at some of the routes on Presten, which I plan to do with my daughters. So, Vestpillaren Direct, which might be familiar as it seems like it gets loads of traffic, describes pitch 6 as follows: "difficult moves lead up the groove"; but photos of pitch 6 seem to show (what I would call) a shallow, left-facing corner with a thin crack. 

So, "groove" equals "corner"? Just trying to sort things out, as we will be climbing in a party of three and I'd rather not slow things down on a potentially crowded route more than necessary. (And, yes, I'm sure that on a trade route like this everything will be more or less obvious once there. I've got lots of experience in the mountains. But I'm up late and looking over the guidebook while having a drink...)

Thanks for any advice. Any other tips on "must do" things around Lofoten would also be appreciated. We'll be there two weeks in July, and in Briançon most of the rest of the summer. 

JIMBO on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to BTreanor:

I think the use of groove is for a feature that is more subtle than a corner. Corners being sharp almost ninety degree changes but grooves could be much wider and more shallow. That's how I read it in most British guides.

paul__in_sheffield - on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to BTreanor:

Hi, a ‘corner’ is a corner or maybe a dihedral. A groove is a much more obtuse angle or feature often in a face, but not as defined as a crack system.....somewhere in the middle between the two.

paul

summo on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to JIMBO:

> I think the use of groove is for a feature that is more subtle than a corner. Corners being sharp almost ninety degree changes but grooves could be much wider and more shallow. That's how I read it in most British guides.

Yeah. A less distinct corner. A part closed book... either more than 90 degrees thus quite shallow and vague, or a tight V you can bridge (stem) up. 

TobyA on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to BTreanor:

I think this is looking down P6 of Vestpillaren  https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=52647 . IIRC P6 is the crux one, it's a, well, "groove". It's a bit more open than the pronounced (right facing) corner up high that makes up the excellent second crux pitch (P10 maybe?).

David Coley - on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to BTreanor:

When might you be in Lofoten  

BTreanor - on 07 Jun 2018

Thanks everyone. That's helpful.

Plans are to be in Lofoten July 8 through July 20 or 21. Hopefully all goes to plan, as there are some complicating circumstances that could scuttle the trip. 

Brian

 

David Coley - on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to BTreanor:

Shame. I'll be arriving with a large group on the 21st July 

JIMBO on 07 Jun 2018
In reply to BTreanor:

Might see you out there...

Luke Reader - on 09 Jun 2018
In reply to BTreanor:

 

Im in Lofoten from the 12th to the 23rd of July, if you ever need some more climbing partners or would like to meet up during your time out there. I'm climbing with two of my norsk friends, one who is living/working in Henningsvaer during the summer.

 
 
mchardski - on 10 Jun 2018
In reply to TobyA:

Come on now, thats ones a corner man! 


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