In reply to blackpoolrock: Think the SMC Northern Highlands South guide will be the one your after, its the definitive guide to the area. Its got all the stuff at Torridon including the classic ridge traverses as well as the good climbing at applecross which isn't too far away.
In reply to The Pylon King: Top guide, have a copy too, use it lots and if you were after 1 book for Scotland its great. But I also find Gary's two books more inspiring (IMHO), colourful and prefer the 'feel'.
In reply to Andy Nisbet: I own and appreciate both and know that editors/authors are striving for perfection. But a guidebook s just that.. a guide, after that I'll get there and go climb what looks and feels good. So a little inaccuracy (in either guide) isn't always a bad thing. ;-)
For VDiff/Severe climbing in torridon I'd recommend a day linking up Creag alligin, Beginners slabs and Inveralligin seacliffs as Diabaig dosn't offer much below VS. Ardeshlaig is worth a couple of hours and don't miss Cioch nose and triple buttress on Beinn Eighe.
> some of it is accurate, being remarkably similar to the SMC guides
Is that not because both use the descriptions as supplied by the FA? I don't think that the SMC can really claim any ownership on these descriptions. I may be missing your point though. I have no experience of putting such books together but find both useful and inspiring.
In reply to Andy Nisbet: The smiley was meant to show that I was being tongue in cheek. Whilst accuracy is definitely a laudable aim I often choose a route with a vaguer/more basic description or where the line doesn't appear so obvious when the guidebook diagram is held up against the crag. I know I'll enjoy unravelling things for myself.
Case in point is Diamond Buttress in the old Glencoe guide. We couldn't make things fit so we just picked what to us was the straightest line (straighter than anything on the diagram) and climbed. We recognised bits of pitches from the guidebokk but otherwise we just climbed. Rab was next to us and confessed to the same problem and climbed a parallel line also not in the guide as a single route (I think he recorded his route later). The vague description gives me the knowledge of what sort of climbing is up there, then its up to me to find it.
Co-incidentaly I was at Sheigra myself last weekend; really rated it although the campsite was a bit on the basic side! I thought the climbing had a certain Cornish quality to it, and would rate Tall Pall as the best single-pitch severe I've done anywhere. Will certainly go back, although it's a bit of a hike from Kinloch.
Thats true have climbed at Sennan Cove in Cornwall in infact my first lead was Demo route their my Dad shouting it will be fine as i inched my way up gripped at 11 ! The only difference between Shiegra and their was that you could get an ice cream 2 mins from the crag, a free ice cream and a flake bar was enough to tempt me through the crux in those days !
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: I think it was the belay sitting in the heather at the top of the route where the lower offs all seemed to be way off to one side (Scottish sport climbing, loose rock, vegetation and twigs and a good seat for a belay
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