UKC

Hiring a guide in Japan?

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 Paul Sagar 26 Sep 2019

I'll be heading to Tokyo next March for a work conference, and wouldn't mind trying to climb whilst I'm out there. The most efficient way would seem to be to hire a guide for a couple of days. A quick google indicates a few operators. Anybody got any experience/recommendations in this regard?

Can't really travel all that far from Tokyo, which may be a touch restrictive, not least as I gather that it may still be pretty cold at that time of year.

Mild preference for trad multi-pitch, but not essential - sport also very welcome. Not going half way around the world to pebble wrestle, though.

Cheers!

1
 Iamgregp 26 Sep 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Well jealous of that mate, I've always wanted to go to Japan!  Needless to say that I'm in the dark about climbing over there, was super surprised to find that there are no English language guidebooks at all (well there one for some Alpine stuff, but not for rock climbing)... 

I'm assuming you'll have read the article on climbing.com about it? https://www.climbing.com/places/lost-in-tokyo-traveling-and-climbing-in-jap... 

Have an awesome time, and if you do have to go pebble wrestle remember not to stand on anyone's mat with your shoes on!

Post edited at 16:01
 fammer 26 Sep 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

No advice on guides but I can give some info on getting out climbing from Tokyo, I lived there for 6 months this winter just gone. You'll struggle to do any multi-pitch trad at that time of year, as most of it is in the mountains and will be under several feet of snow.

Best places I found within easy reach of tokyo for climbing are maku iwa and tenno iwa. Maku iwa is a decent sized area, mainly sport, a bit of bouldering and a few single pitch trad lines. Mostly slabs but a few steeper harder things. You can get a train to Yugawara in an hour and a half or so depending on which station you leave from. There's then a short bus ride or taxi to the crag (ask for maku yama).

Tenno Iwa is a similar distance by train to Musashi Itsukaichi on the Ome line, and then a short bus ride. Pretty much all sport, but it's all quite good quality (better than maku iwa). Bit of bouldering also.

Mitake is a popular bouldering spot also on the Ome line and is good in the winter - there's also an english language guide vailable at a local shop that also rents out bouldering pads.

https://climbjapan.blogspot.com is a good resource, some searching on there will find more options.

There's several facebook groups with large member bases of ex-pats focussed around finding climbing partners, can't remember the exact names but some searching should find them. They're not incredibly active but you could probably find people to climb with.

Hope that helps.

OP Paul Sagar 26 Sep 2019
In reply to fammer:

Super helpful thanks! 

Now trying to work out how long I can extend the trip so as to maximise climbtime...

 Postmanpat 26 Sep 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Jogasaki, on the coast of the Izu peninsula, about 2.5 hours by train from Tokyo will be warm enough in March. Mainly single pitch sport nowadays.

https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/taiken.co/amp/rock-climbing-at-jogasaki-on-t...

 fammer 27 Sep 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Joyama is another spot on Izu I've just remembered, some single and multi pitch sport. There's a classic 4 pitch 5.10a (battlerunner) and a 6 pitch 5.10c (can't remember the name). 

 edwardwoodward 01 Oct 2019
In reply to fammer: That would be Excursion.

Jouyama is all bolted and is fine for climbing at that time of year. Plenty of single- and multi-pitch routes on the huge south facing slab and loads of steeper stuff in Wild Boar Gorge and other upper areas - easy walk-in and onsens all around. All the popular routes have been rebolted recently.

There's a neat little suntrap nearby called Washizuyama which has some excellent routes and a great view across the bay.

Makuiwa in Yugawara is also 99% bolt routes - and 99% single-pitch with lots more onsens.

There's a little known slab near Lake Saiko which is a good winter venue:

http://ogawayama.online/shizuteria/saiko/saiko.html

Paul, I'll mail you the address of a guide I know.

If all else fails and you're twiddling your thumbs one weekend, drop me a line and let's meet for a climb. (I'm in Shizuoka.)

Post edited at 00:50
 Mr Fuller 01 Oct 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

ice.solo who was a long time UKC poster is the man: https://iceclimbingjapan.com/ I've not climbed in Japan but had a bit of contact with him a while ago and he was very helpful. If his UKC posts were anything to go by he definitely knows his stuff.

OP Paul Sagar 01 Oct 2019
In reply to Mr Fuller:

Thanks - have actually been in touch with ice.solo (not his real name) and we have begun working something out!


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