UKC

I'm heading to New Zealand for a couple of weeks. I don't really have the room to take all my climbing kit as all the space is occupied by child stuff but  it occurred to me that vf kit is small and light.

Is it something they have over there or am I better off just looking at scrambles?

Not really as far as I've found. Some great walking/scrambling* though, but be prepared for loseness (although this of course depends where you go). Lots off sport climbing too if that helps you to cut kit down.

*Important to note that my definition of scrambling goes up to about VD

I do have a bit of climbing lined up as some friends are living there. They have things like jobs though so weekends only.

diff is about where I stop scrambling and start roping up with big boots, vdiff/severe for climbing shoes so that's promising.

My shoes are currently cleaner than they have ever been.

Depending on where you are you'd be better just walking than looking for climbing. Get out into the bush and up a remote hill or two.

How inconsiderate!

Where are you headed?

Terrible isn't it?

I have family in aukland, so beginning and ending there. The plan is to work our way south over about 2-3 weeks, then head back north at the end.

Realistically most of the trip will be family friendly tourist stuff plus catching up with friends but  hoping to grab a few days for walking or climbing.

I can only speak for the North Island but the mountain activities there are as described above, loose.

There's some good walks if you aim for some of the larger mountains, noting that any scrambles and the likes are generally pretty vague and not well described (I found) in the local guidebooks:

• Mt. Taranaki is a long slog with a bit of scrambling but the views are amazing and I'd say it's only worth doing on a good clear day. Beware that there can be treacherous ice up (with exposure) if it's not done at the end of the summer where everything has melted.
• Mt. Ruapehu is like above. There are scrambles up there as well (pinnacle ridge) but expect a drastic amount of loose scary rock (it is an active volcano after all!)
• You can hike up Ngahurohoe but its very loose scree and really not that pleasant. Makes for some fantastic ski touring if you're there in winter.
• Lots of good walks dotted about as well (The Pinnacles - Coromandel, Mount Pirongia - Waikato, Te Aroha (hot springs at the base!) to name a few. Check the DOC website for good info on the walks.

For climbing in the North Island, depends on your time and location but there's a couple of good multipitch areas:

• Kawakawa bay - Taupo
• Castle Rock - Coromandel
• Some stuff in Mangetepopo

And loads of single pitch sport which can be good fun:

• Mangakino
• Mangaokewa (currently closed access though I think)
• Waipapa
• Froggart Edge

New Zealand via Farrata? 

Not sure, we went via Abu Dhabi when we went

Ah okay, all of my experience is with the South Island so probably a lot less crossover. But it seems you’ve got a great hitlist there for the north.

I'm based in Charleston (if you make it this far South), and would be happy to show off the Charleston sea cliffs (granite!), the Paparoa mountains (granite not choss!), or the limestone sport. Also have some caves as well.

There are a couple down south; The Rungway in Queenstown and Wildwire in Wanaka but they're both commercially operated so you can't just rock up and do them like you can in Europe.

Good, accessible scrambling is thin on the ground, too, so maybe stick with whatever rock climbing you can get and some hiking?

You've got a good hit list from Pina but a few other places to consider:

There are some good single pitch sport and trad routes at Ti Point near Auckland. It's in a great location and has a nice walk in along the coast.

Whakapapa crag if you're in the area and can find a partner is an easy day trip. Single and multi pitch sport and trad about 20 minute walk from the car, but feels pretty adventurous! Will be covered in snow in winter though.

You'll likely be able to find partners if you bring harness, shoes etc. Try the Auckland climbing Facebook page, or just turn up to a popular crag at a weekend. Most people are really friendly and I've had some great days cragging as a result (and made some good friends!). You'll not find many people around mid-week, but you'll almost certainly find people at froggatt, ti point and kawakawa bay on a weekend.

AdrianC as ever has beaten me to it - there are two but they are commercial ventures (welcome to Queenstown!).

There's a disintegrating chain somewhere by the Dragon's Teeth, and a fixed chain out on the approach to Darran Saddle but given that the Milford Road has been washed away and there is 50cm of rain forecast *for tomorrow* I don't suppose there will be anyone heading that way for a while....

Have fun

b (in Dunedin)

Thanks to everyone who replied. I have pulled out the vf kit and started reading up on Alpine scrambles and perusing the UKC crag database.

The Crag is also a good resource and has more up to date access information (there are lots of closed crags at the moment...)

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/new-zealand/north-island 

My 2 cents, from my experiences in NZ.  No idea about VF or mountaineering but if it is a climbing hit you need then...

Bouldering at Castle Hill (South Island), you could hire a mat and guide from Springfield which is the closest town.  Great place to visit and hang out in (Castle Rock not Springfield) I would say 'family friendly' but then I was there before I had a family so WTF did I know?

Round Nelson (also South Island) we had a good couple of days at Payne's Ford near Takaka, I'm sure you could find someone with draws and a rope you could team up with at the Hangdog campsite http://hangdogcamp.co.nz/ at short notice

Wellington - go to Ferg's climbing centre, sure it's an indoor wall but you'll never go to another in as beautiful a location.  You can hire other gubbins there for exploring the harbour like bikes and kayaks https://fergskayaks.co.nz/price-page, 

As others up thread have said make use of the Dept of Conservation, great folks who are really helpful about where to go/where to stay.  They have (had) drop in centres you could pop in to in major cities when I was there.

My last bit of advice is don't try to fit too much in - there's a lot of lonely road out there.

Previous NZ threads from UKC as below for ease of reference in the future, these are the ones about trips rather than moving permanently.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/new_zealand_what_are_the_mus...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/walking_in_new_zealand_north_and_sout...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/new_zealand_castle_hill_boul...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/bouldering/bouldering_newzealand-603708?v...

As usual when these threads come up.  Jealous as f**k.

Have a great time and hope to catch up with you some time - not seen you since a windy BBQ in the Gower? 

Has it been that long? I have been out of play with an injury for a few months - a crapness excuse I will be milking for ages. Hoping to line up some stuff when I get back in March. Want to go on the mailing list?

Sure, just nothing too scary, else I'll have to wheel out my current excuses of off for a bike ride or got some mines to explore, or some Warhammer miniatures I need to help Henry paint : )  Say hi to the family.

There is one that I know of in Wanaka - it;s a commercial operator and not cheap, But you won't need your own gear:

https://www.wildwire.co.nz/?gclid=CjwKCAiAyeTxBRBvEiwAuM8dnQvzGKamRN7k2rtHE...

Might  be pushing it to get from Akld to Wanaka and back in two weeks without spending too much time driving.

Don't know much about N Island climbing but https://climbnz.org.nz/ has most of the knowledge you'll need

Thanks again everyone who replied.

I managed to get a day of climbing and a bit of walking done but dealing with sick child blew a hole in plans for the middle of the trip.

Might get out tomorrow if it stops raining.