UKC

/ Jamming practice for a trip to Yosemite

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Sam Curley - on 02 May 2018

Going to Yosemite in July for 2 weeks with my dad, I need practice crack climbing. The Crank at Ramshaw is a definite, but looking for others around VS/HVS.  

1poundSOCKS - on 02 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

I would've thought there's loads of easy cracks at Stanage. I found practicing on low traverses/boulders was easier, can focus on technique more.

BTW, Yosemite will be roasting in July, Tuolumne is cooler. Not that I've been in July. But it was freezing in October when I camped there.

Jo Morrison on 02 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

What routes do you have planned for Yosemite? I live just outside SF and have done some of the classics so let me know if you want any local info. Jamming here is another level to pretty much anything in the UK. I assume you've checked out Mountain Project and SuperTopo?

I totally agree that Tuolumne is much more comfortable in July and I prefer the routes there. Cathedral Peak is a must and a good intro.

The Reaper on 02 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

Your profile says that you like quarried grit. Get yourself to Millstone, plenty to go at there. Start with Bond Street (amenable HVS) and work upwards. You will not be disappointed!

The Reaper on 02 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

In fact, here it is on a plate https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1658

Sam Curley - on 03 May 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Thanks for the tip.

I think i'm going to struggle with the heat so thanks for the advice about Tuolumne. Where did you camp in Tuolumne? 

Sam Curley - on 03 May 2018
In reply to The Reaper:

Yeah my dad said its a great place, thanks for the idea. Bond Street looks a bit tricky. Thanks for the link.

Sam Curley - on 03 May 2018
In reply to Ugly Kid Jo:

We have some classics which we would like to go at like Snake Dike, royal arches etc. Would you recommend any others? We don't know where we staying yet because all the sites we have looked at have been mega expensive, we are going to try and get into camp 4. Where did you stay while in the valley and Tuolumne? Where do you store your food? I've heard your not supposed to leave anything in your car, but there are bear proof boxes. But I was thinking what are you supposed to do with meat? Yes we've checked both web pages out and thinking of buying the supertopo guide book, is the newer version or the older version better?  Or should we buy both? 

Thanks for the suggestion about Cathedral Peak, I think its on my list of climbs to do.

alan moore - on 04 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

Found that most of the VS/HVS climbing in Yosemite was slabby rather than crack climbing. Even the cracks were quite laid back and not steep like The Crank.

Im sure therell be a few out there though...

dominic o - on 04 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

You'd be better off on three pebble slab practicing for Snake Dyke, Royal Arches and Tuolumne There's barely a jam in sight! Here's a link to a trip up Snake Dyke to inspire you (and you'll find a few other recommended routes around the same time on the blog) https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2015/09/20/snake-dike/

In terms of camping advice, Camp 4 is a "must do" part of The Valley pilgrimage, but will involve a very early start to get in the queue and you'll be limited to a week max at that time of year. Tuolumne has a campground which also has "first come first served" spaces and a bit less pressure. It's a gorgeous place and I'd +1 the recommendation to spend some time there. There are also other less popular campgrounds between the two, eg White Wolf and Porcupine Flats, which allow both to be reached albeit by a lengthy commute. 

Also, yes to "all food in bear boxes" (which are available throughout the park) including meat. You can buy a cheap ice box (or often pick up a discarded one from a dumpster) and keep it topped up with ice from the store. I'd only buy meat the day you plan to cook it though.

Enjoy! 

Offwidth - on 04 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

You need to practice slabs not cracks. Cruxy cracks are graded around 5.7 at 4b and 5.8 at 4c and 5.9 at 5b on Stanage grades so easy for average gritstone standards (Stanage is softer graded than most grit crags). Slabs are at least a full technical grade harder in equivalent Stanage terms. The crack issue you may need to work on is sustained moves for long distance so you have to be fairly bold not to run out of gear, or carry way too much pro for proper enjoyment. So as an example South Crack on  Stately Pleasure Dome has the 5.8 crack involving a very long section of protectable 4b climbing then up above a 5.7 R pitch that is uprotected E1 5a slab for about 8m. Another example is a 5.9R slab sandbag I backed off and toprope worked at Indian Cove in Joshua Tree... it was reminiscent of seconding (with falls)  E5 6a slab at Froggatt. Royal Arches is a delight: HS all the way from 4c cruxy sections to 3b unprotected slab. Snake Dyke needs a solid techincal slab ability next to a bolt (5a crux) and the ability to not get spooked leading pitch after pitch of completely unprotected 3c moves. There are loads of classic cracks at Tuolumne btw as well as other unusual styles. My favorite up there was the plate pitch on Hobbit Book.

Post edited at 10:26
Deadeye - on 04 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

July too hot.  Toulumne is the answer.

You're going to get spanked by the grades no matter how much you think you've practised.

The two climbs you mention mostly aren't cracks anyway.

Personally I think practice climbing lots of pitches efficiently is more useful than a grit jam crack.  Lakes, North Wales.

Offwidth - on 04 May 2018
In reply to Deadeye:

The HS and VS lines alongside the classic VDs on Idwall slabs have a Yosemite feel at times. Etive Slabs is the closest I've come across in the UK to Tuolumne slabs. Maybe as many as possible multipitch Bosigran or Chair Ladder VS and HVS for the steeper stuff.

Post edited at 10:24
SGD - on 04 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

Top tip....

Take some binoculars so you can spot some of the bolts before you leave the ground.

Tuolumne is amazing. Another good route to cut your teeth on is Zee Tree. Really easy access but the actual 1st pitch starts about 100+ft off the floor (hence mentioning bino's) and you literally just have to quest up this easy angled slab that starts to steepen up just as you get to the belay which is really hard to spot from the ground.

The Bunny slopes and Golfers route is a good place to do some single pitch stuff that will tune you into some of the run outs you will encounter on the bigger routes.

 

We did do some good jamming routes on Dozier Dome (amazing location).

 

 

Post edited at 10:32
michael burrows - on 05 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

i have an annual national park pass valid until sept 2018, with space for second  signature for sale if you interested? £20.

we were last october. hope you have a good visit

1poundSOCKS - on 05 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

> Where did you camp in Tuolumne? 

Can't remember the name, but I wouldn't recommend it for climbing. I just used it on the way in. Lots of people show up late, noisy, no other climbers.

IainL on 05 May 2018
In reply to Sam Curley:

Have you booked any campsite in the park thro' the NPS reservations? This is your biggest problem for July as it is peak visitors time. I wouldn't bank on getting into Camp 4. You may have take any available campground and do a lot of driving. Outside the park at Tioga Pass are a number of campgrounds, but also very busy.

Sam Curley - on 08 May 2018
In reply to dominic o:

Thanks for the route, that's what i like to hear. Im terrible at jamming. 

Also thanks for the campgrounds, didn't know where to look to find them. 

Sam Curley - on 08 May 2018
In reply to alan moore:

Thanks for the heads up, that's a relief. 

Sam Curley - on 08 May 2018
In reply to Deadeye:

Ok will try to get down to Wales more.

Yeah, absolutely whooped. But that's part of the fun!

Sam Curley - on 08 May 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Ok, ill keep a look out on the way in.

Sam Curley - on 08 May 2018
In reply to IainL:

No I haven't, ok ill check it out. Thanks for the heads up. 

Sam Curley - on 08 May 2018
In reply to michael burrows:

Yes definitely interested, will talk to my dad about it and get back to you.

Thankyou.

Sam Curley - on 11 May 2018
In reply to SGD:

Thanks for all the advice, we have just got the Tuolumne Free Climbs guide book. Looks amazing, so exciting cannot wait.


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