UKC

So I’m already dreaming about Kaly in summer 2021 and haven’t even been on this years summer holiday (outer Hebrides) ! We went there for the first time in 2015 in the summer, climbed a bit and really loved everything there. We tend to go at Easter but after the whole pandemic this year we are literally dreaming about a return there summer next year. We want to climb more but want it shaded and will obviously work with time etc. Morning shade if possible so we can chill in the afternoon. We know about Odyssey which gives good morning shade, Kastelli too and Afternoon is good for PM. Anyone know of any other crags off the top of their head that gives morning shade? We will hire a car and travel around. I’m also enjoying searching the guide books but would value some tips from seasoned kaly climbers. 🤗

Irox, Miltiadis and Eros on Telendos will give you afternoon shade, as will The Beach, Star wars (right of see breeze, late afternoon), and Milianos cave. Arginonta Valley & Black Buddha offer shade from late morning, Summer Time from early afternoon. If there is a breeze, it is sometimes possible to have two hours  climbing with the setting sun, for example in Arhi far left...

There is more than these options, but these will keep you busy for a while! 

Best thomas

The main thing is to get up early, it can be sweaty in the afternoon even on the shady crags. There’s still loads to do there. Spent time there in august and still managed to get lots done. Much quieter than later in the year at the crags. 

There is a nice spot high up on the hillside on the right as you drive into vathy. Nice long wall climbjng on pockets the 6s and a couple of steeper 7s to keep people happy. Can't remember its name exactly but it's not hard to work it out from the crag map. Gets afternoon shade but the walk up in blazing sun is heavy going. 

Edit -ET https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/et_meltochi_pyramid-17175

I‘ve done a couple of holidays on kaly in august, and as others have said is get up early and you should be ok.  The best thing is you get two holidays in one.  Spend the afternoons swimming or snorkelling.  Personally I think September/October is a good time, still nice and warm and the sea is like a bath.  

Hi Thomas, thank you this will keep us going for sure! 

Hi, thanks we completely agree and tend to be out by 8 but thinking of even earlier next year. We would be going end of July/August, the early morning Is lovely and fresh 

Hi , yep an early start is good and we like to try and get it done then cool off in a pool or reading in the shade. We can’t do September or October due to work but will be going for end July/August. The vision of sitting reading near a pool is keeping me going! 

Thanks will look at this!

Depending on how long you have, you could have a rest day-trip to Leros, if you’ve not been.  It’s like a throwback to 1960’s Greece.  There is some  too, bit limited though.

There is a very big blue pool beneath all crags😜. Open to all. For free. Don't get the need for a formal pool in this location... 

The west facing crags by Myrties were great for morning climbs, though a big slog up the steep hillside to get to it to start your morning! Also, not climbing related but on a non climbing afternoon but be sure to drive to Emporios on the Northern part of the island. The beach and sea is very clean here and fantastic for snorkelling, and the small village is lovely with cafes and bars. Beaches in more popular areas of the island tend to be quite dirty unfortunately. Also if you haven't been already Kokkinidis Restaurant is a must. Great service and some of the best food on the island.