/ Kalymnos/Telendos question

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neilnevill on 10 Mar 2012 -
Hi all,
I'm off to Kaly at Easter with a group of friends and some of us are keen to head over to Telendos for the multipitch Wings of Life. What's the best way to get there and back again? Boat to the south face and short walk? or boat to the village and longer walk?

Once climbed, the decent path from the top brings you back to the village right? So boat back from there? Should that be pre-arranged or just negotiate with a fisherman?

What should we expect to pay for the boat trip?

Barney - on 10 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill: There are boats about every 20-30 min they wait to fill it up. The boat then goes to the village and then on to the next stop - definately take the boat to the second stop as it'll take much longer to walk although the path goes via a nudeist beach which is interesting...
Trevor Langhorne on 10 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill:
The boats are regular but I believe they have gone up a lot from the 5 Euro we paid in Oct 2010. Not sure which second stop the previous respondent refers to, when we went the boat just worked between Massouri and Telendos village. The only second stop we have had was when we changed to a second boat and went to Irox which is on the opposite side of the Island from Wings for Life.

We walked from Telendos village which felt further than the guidebook suggests. From the top of the route you walk up to a col (where there is a cairn) then make a long, steep and uncomfortable descent through almost pathless spikey scrub to get to the little white monastery which is very visible from Kalymnos. A better path then leads down from the monastery to the coastal path which leads back (after several "false hope" headlands)to the village and an extremely welcome beer or 3. Sadly we were unable to find any nudist beaches along the way, if we had we may never have done the route!

Hope this helps.
cmb621 - on 10 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill:

Nice - Wings for Life is a brilliant multi pitch - loved it.

If you go to to Myrties you will be able to catch a boat straight to Wings for Life. (Back in Easter 2011)I cannot remember how much it cost - cannot have been more than 5 euros each, one way, for 4 of us... We did have a bit of trouble finding the start of the route but that could have been us being a bit rubbish!

Once you get to the top (as in the other posts) make sure you look for the cairns on along the ridge, in the distance and walk towards them. Once you find them just keep following them - the way down was ok - a bit shrubby so long trousers are good - it did take ages and we were starving by the time we got to the little harbour. We had a well earned beer, salad, chips and calamari at the only place open at that time of year. You should be able to just negotiate a boat unless you a benighted.

Make sure you carry enough water - we were totally parched and was climbing in the sun quite a lot.

Have a good time... you are going to have a blast!

neilnevill on 10 Mar 2012 -
In reply to cmb621:

cheers for the replies.

The whole group of us amounts to 10, about half with multipitch experience, the other half not but good enough climbers to second up it. I think it would be a long day, but a great day to get all 10 of us up it.

I shall definitely ensure small rucksack containing windprooof/shower proof, several litres of water, chocolate bars, sunscreen, headtorch and camera is taken and money to by celebratory beers!
Trevor Langhorne on 11 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill:

Hmm, 5 pairs in line each with an inexperienced second, then there may be other parties who may well be faster and want through. Continental climbers are sometimes not quite as reserved as us Brits when it comes to passing a slower party.Sounds like a recipe for an epic and benightment to me.

Being honest I don't think Wings is a very suitable first multi pitch route; I wouldn't venture onto it without an experienced second/partner. Kalymnos 2000 or its near neighbour would be a lot better. Even after that Wings would be a huge ask. Have the inexperienced in your team got some experience of offwidth cracks? - the first 6a pitch is a corner of marble like smoothness with an offwidth crack and a limited supply of holds and an inconvenient overhang half way up it's left wall. Above that there are three pitches of pretty sensational and technical climbing with some traversing out above some large roofs, there are two very exposed and small (i.e. only take one pair at a time) stances. A person unused to such positions might well get very gripped and that could cause major problems for those following.

Each pair will need to take a small sack for shoes, water, food, spare clothes etc etc. The route is in the sun all day and is rather "tiring" to put it politely.

While not wishing to be a kill-joy I tnink you are expecting too much from your inexperienced friends; after all climbing is meant to be fun!

Have you read this (from kalymnos Climbing website)?

Wings for Life

A huge multi-pitch epic.(5a 20m, 5b 30m, 5b 10m, 4b 30m, 4c 20m, 5b 20m, 6a 30m, 5b 20m, 6a 20m, 5b 20m, 5a 30m). From Telendos village, take the track along the south coastline until a high cave is visible with a monster rib coming down its right-hand side. Hike up to a point where the the rib can be accessed (obvious cairn), Follow the rib for many pitches on very sharp rock; well-bolted. A very awkward steep corner finally lands one below the headwall. Technical climbing now leads up and left into hyperspace; hanging belay. At the top, throw away climbing shoes, massage feet, bring up your partner then walk up to the main Telendos ridge. Turn right along it until small cairns lead down the far side, heading towards the small chapel on the north slope.Turn a small cliff to its right. From the chapel, head down more easily to the coast path back to Telendos village. A major day out. 18 QD plus gear for the belay points.
Trevor Langhorne on 11 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill:
Don't forget your helmet - there is still some loose stuff, especially on the first half.
mux - on 12 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill: Well worth the trip a grand day out.

We did wild country (just next to Wings)there is a bit about the day in here somewhere;

but in brief we did it late summer with little water - got the boat to talyndos and walked in. We then walked off again over the ridge.

left late and was back in time for beers and a swim before catching the ferry home.

you can also run most of the pitches together to save time. Rock is sharp at the top though.

Great Day - I would do it again...

hope it helps - Enjoy
Simon Caldwell - on 12 Mar 2012
In reply to Trevor Langhorne:
> Sounds like a recipe for an epic and benightment to me.

Agreed. Although the first crux pitch can be aided (hangs head in shame), the second is a (very exposed) traverse which could give problems (can all you inexperienced seconds prussik?)

> there are two very exposed and small (i.e. only take one pair at a time) stances

There was one stance that was only just big enough for one person let alone two!

A really enjoyable route, good enough to save for when you can appreciate it.
Ade7 on 12 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill: Once you start traversing across the top of the cave you’d find it very difficult to retreat if you decided to back off the final pitches. Read the description in the new Kalymnos guide, it makes it sound more intimidating than it is but it’s worth considering there’s no mountain rescue out there so you’re by yourself if something goes awry.

It’s a great route and a great day out.
cmb621 - on 12 Mar 2012
In reply to neilnevill:

If you are looking for one to practice first, try School crag... I cannot remember the name of the route- but there is an easy 4? pitch one there. In the book it says that instructors take people leaning how to do multipitch up it. You have to lower off back down the route as oppose to walking back down. But its easy climbing and gets you used to the rope work - especially if only one person will be leading the whole way.

10 people maybe difficult on Wings for Life - 4 of us went and the second party had to wait for the first a little bit. The last party of your lot maybe waiting about at the bottom when you start of, for a long time!

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