UKC

I am going to be in the Ecrins for the first time from 4-25 July but it looks like my climbing partners from UK are unlikely to make it (I actually live in France.) I am experienced (40 years up to TD) and very happy scrambling around up to PD+/AD- solo as long as there are no nasty crevasses to fall into: can anyone who knows the area recommend me some routes which get high without crossing glaciers. (I have a car to get around.)

In reply to Alfrede:

why don't u just take the drive over the col to Aielfroide via Briancon instead? The campsite is much, much busier, the range of routes (esp non glaciated routes) is greater, and its a better spot on hang out IMO..

John C 

In reply to John Cuthbert:Thanks, but I have accommodation booked and paid for some of the time in Bérarde. As a thrifty Scot I am loath to take the financial hit! However I may bite the bullet and change base. Are there any routes you specifically recommend on the Ailefroide side, or is there  perhaps a contact site online for partners as per Chamonix?

In reply to Alfrede:

You poor thing!  Everybody else is stranded in far worse places.

There is loads to do there.  Go for an scramble up Pic Coolidge.  Or up around the Dibona region...  The mountains down valley, or the via Ferrata(s).

In reply to Alfrede:

Pic Coolidge from La Berarde is a nice day out.

If you do go over the other side the Mont Pelvoux via the Rochers Rouges is good. Bit of glacier at the top but not crevassed. I did it in a day from the campsite but there's a hut and nice bivvy spots too.

In reply to Alfrede:

I second the idea of heading up to the Dibona. The walk up to the Soreiller Hut is very good in its own right, the hut does fantastic chocolate cake and for me the Dibona is one of the most aesthetic bits of rock in the whole of the Alps. Your first sight of it from the walk-in will live long in the memory. If you're confident, you could scramble the North Ridge route, which goes at around PD and is used as the descent after doing routes on the main face. You could carry a rope if you wanted the security of an ab to get back down the last bit. If you do manage to find a partner, Visite Obligatoire is one of the best bolted alpine routes I've ever done.

In reply to Alfrede:

We stumbled across La Bérarde a couple of years ago and thought it was an absolutely fabulous valley. I'd +1 the recommendation to walk up to the Dibona (my wife had a couple of broken ribs so we couldn't climb but we'll definitely be back!) 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/09/26/aiguille-dibona/

There's also a load of cragging in the valley (guidebook available at the campsite) if you bump into a like minded soul and can't get up high. 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/09/28/la-berarde-les-oisans/

Enjoy! 

In reply to Alfrede:

The main campsite office at Aeilfroide has a noticeboard, otherwise I rely upon 'Travelling Rock Climbers; on FB. 

Entirely understand your point about budget mind.. there's plenty to do from La Berarde..

JC

In reply to Alfrede:

East Arête (PD+)

A superb but little-known route. You'll need a rope for the ab descent (which goes past the Dibona hut).

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I have always thought that Pic Geny (E Ridge up -> W down) would be a bit serious to go up solo.  (Quite long committing, also with a delicate descent.)  Have you done this solo?

In reply to BruceM:

No I haven't, there were half a dozen of us. But nor have I climbed TD, and don't have 40 years' Alpine experience

In reply to Alfrede:

This is a nice day out from the Soreiller hut, ( one of the nicest huts I have stayed in)  No glacier that I recall.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/aiguilles_du_soreiller-4076/south_...

Pic Coolidge may also be free from crevasses though do check.  We stayed at the Temple Ecrins hut, admittedly I was unfit and slow but but it was still a long day to get back to Berarde in the evening.  There and back in a day from campsite would be pushing it unless you are super fit. 

La Berarde is beautiful but very isolated.  As others have mentioned, the Ailfroide side has more going on and probably easier to pick up a partner.

Very envious, hope you have a great trip.  

In reply to Alfrede:My thanks to you all for a helpful set of responses. I will probably split my time between Berarde and Ailefroide and undoubtedly will end up doing some of the routes you have so kindly recommended. Happy deconfinement to you all (and good luck with Boris.)

In reply to Alfrede:

Alfrede, If quarantine rules change I may be coming out to Ailefroide in July.  If so I will contact you via UKC to see if you are still looking for partners. 
btw phone connectivity at La Berarde was poor, I used to go to a bar to get wifi.  Ailefroide is not much better for phones but there are more bars and restaurants with wifi. 

In reply to Slarti B:

aok, mon ami. i can be got on alfrobertson2@hotmail.com or 0033785163376. Maybe see your there.