UKC

Heading to La Pedriza for a long weekend in March. Having read fiends blog and some of the material online I'm under no illusions that I'll be climbing anywhere near where I would usually haha and I'm sure I'll get spanked and scared on the 6a slabs there! What I was wondering is if anyone had any suggestions for good areas to start out there to get into the style without too much scare factor, any areas to avoid and if there were any classic "must-do" routes or problems around 6a sport or up to F7A to try there? 

Any other beta for the area is greatly appreciated

Cheers all 

Bumping thread once only, anyone got any help? 

There is some info in the Rockfax app for this area.

intro to friction slab try valdemanco and for some not so bold more Trad la canbrera. Also la Pantones is close.

there is some stuff in la pedriza that is not too bad. Can’t find the name right now

There is some info in the Rockfax app for this area.

intro to friction slab try valdemanco and for some not so bold more Trad la canbrera. Also la Pantones is close.

there is some stuff in la pedriza that is not too bad. Can’t find the name right now

Hi. 

You may know this already but the slab grading is really no correlation to normal sport grades. 7a slab will be nails. 

There are a number of well bolted single pitch climbing areas to test your mettle on before questing up anything bigger.

Cheers, didn't realise pedriza was in the rockfax app! me and Jonesy are staying at Talo Martins Air bnb so hoping to get some info from him too. Thanks for the suggestion for valdemanco! 

I'm not expecting to get up any sport 7a slabs, or even some 6a slabs haha :') I was talking about some of the steeper boulder problems up to F7A. But cheers for the advice 

I just check the routes on the app.

The area at La Pedriza is Cacho De Los Brezos.

The routes I found amazing were around La Nina Incordino (5c) and Editorial Aguardo (6a)  there are other routes around here that are easier. In general I found the volts looked a reasonable distance apart. However due to the friction slab it meant you can't reach you to clip them, instead you have to climb till they are almost by your waist to clip them.

Risco de los Principiantes and Dierdro (5a) is a great trad climb.

La Tortuga a classic is Paralisis Permente, very bold and scary. but only 5c! Also Asa

I went out there in October.  It's great but hell of a head feck ! My palms are sweating thinking about it.  

I would recommend la tortuga as a good intro , we chose cancho de los breos and got whipped.  I climb about 6c on a good day and have climbed e4 on slabs here but damn those routes are hard ! I think the economical bolting doesn't help,  5m plus in places.  

I would like to return but I would go when it's cooler.  

It's a huge place with loads of climbing I would consider looking at some of the steeper climbs , they may have holds. 

When your head has popped off head over to patones,  lush place

Does any one know if there is a guide written in english?

 Only the rock fax as far as I'm aware,  another thing to be aware of is that some routes have aid sections,  we struggled like mad on one route only to discover later that we were supposed to aid that section ! 

Concha de Los Brezos has a single pitch 'ecole'. A schooling in slab climbing indeed! I thought very well (closely spaced) bolting compared to the bigger routes in those parts. 

Edit: hmm, maybe it was more spaced than I remember.  One of the locals showed us the approved slab falling technique of either past backpedalling, or more terrifying still, turning around and running headlong down the slab until the rope took you. Horrors.