Looking to go to the lake district when travel is allowed again, but have been told the approaches are mega. I have only 'climbing fitness;' (no targetted cardio/leg work) so am not sure about how I'll fare.
Are there any crags with reasonable approaches? Ideally looking for up to 1.5hr but not too steep, or steep but short.
I've been going through the approach notes but there's a lot of crags! Any reccomendations? Interested in single or multipitch up to VS
long time since I've been to the Lakes but surely many of the crags in Langdale & Borrowdale are well under 90 minutes from the road ?
Castle Rock, Thirlmire, is pretty much a roadside crag, as is Sheperds in Borrowdale
Esk Buttress - follow the river from Brotherilkeld.
The mountain crags have walk-ins that are often about 90mins, rarely more. There are plenty of roadside crags, some single pitch some multi-pitch. And plenty in between.
Your main concern picking the right crag is finding something that's dry and clean. So, if you happen to come in good weather, it's worth making the most of the conditions and going to a high mountain crag, e.g. Dow is under 90min and not steep. If it's been pissing down, you'll be left scraping the odd dry route somewhere like Shepherd's (quick drying, roadside, a bit uninspiring but some good routes) or Castle Rock.
Some places e.g. Langdale are likely to get very busy in good weather once travel is allowed. To have a good time in the Lakes, you'll need to consider conditions, walk-in, crowds/parking, is the crag any good at the best of times, etc. Being flexible is better than making fixed plans. And get a book!
Thanks that’s really helpful everyone. I guess my aim is just to have a range of crags to pick from so we can adapt to weather etc.
Just trying to establish whether it’s a reasonable destination or whether I need to do hold off until I’ve done more arduous walking in prep.
90 minutes walking is fine, 90mins uphill slog not so much. (Had covid for a long time over winter, fine now but all cardio went out the window)
> ...whether I need to do hold off until I’ve done more arduous walking in prep.
Good grief, no. I am fat and lazy and hate long walk ins, but there are plenty of crags that are great at sub VS which you can stroll to in less than half an hour.
Shepherds is about ten minutes gentle uphill, perhaps a bit more if you want to get to the far end. Castle Rock of Triermain is similar, as are the Scout crags in Langdale. Raven (Langdale) is about twice as far. Black Crag (Wrynose) is about 25 minutes but fairly flat.
I think someone's pulling your leg stating that lake district walk-ins are mega! I would have thought 1.30hrs would see you to at least 90% of crags, even scafell!
Hundreds of low level valley crags and plenty of routes under VS to go at, both single and multi pitch. Buy one of the new select guides and you can make your decision on how quick drying they are and which direction they face, crags like Dow only get the morning sun and it's always cold 😉
> I think someone's pulling your leg . . . .
Yes, I think it would be easier to list the crags where the walk-in is more than 90 minutes or so.
Odd! Maybe when my mate said 3 hour approaches they meant in total.
Parts of Pillar Rock and Steeple in Ennerdale are probably the only crags pushing 2-3 hours to walk-in.
I don't think anyone is saying that they're all roadside - Eagle Crag above Buttermere has become a lot harder work as I've got older, but you won't be short of things to climb in the Lakes even for a reasonable amount of effort.
> Odd! Maybe when my mate said 3 hour approaches they meant in total.
Just exaggerating. For the mountain crags, the walk in is hard work, carrying a pack up a hill for over an hour. It's part of the day that makes it all more rewarding (but obviously not if you're suffering unduly as it sounds like you might) because you're then in a mountain atmosphere with great views, away from normal life in the valley below. But those crags are soaking wet most of the time anyway.
As has been said, most Lakeland crags are under 90 mins approach. Some are quite steep though, eg. Scafell.
Try Black crag (Borrowdale); Raven crag (Langdale); Black crag (Langdale); Esk buttress (Eskdale); Gimmer (Langdale); Kettle crag (Langdale); Castle rock (St. Johns in the Vale); Dow (Coniston); Wallowbarrow (Duddon).
The selected guide from FRCC Wired or Rockfax will give much more choice and either will be a good investment.
Thanks that’s a great list! Yeah the steep is definitely something to be kept to a minimum if possible. Appreciate the input!
When you say “up to VS” it’s hard to know if you mean including VS. If it is including it opens up a greater range. If you’re planning on coming soon then valley crags will be favourite unless you’re very lucky with the weather. Wallabarrow (aka Wallowbarrow) is one of the best as it gets any sun going being south-facing and has lots of good steady routes from V Diff to VS which are not sandbags and very suitable for a first day on Lakeland rock.
> long time since I've been to the Lakes but surely many of the crags in Langdale & Borrowdale are well under 90 minutes from the road ?
Walk-ins have got a lot longer in the last 15 years or so. ;((
Thanks! Yeah I mean including VS, I should have phrased that better
This week's Friday Night Video is the classic bouldering film Best of the West. Set in Texas' Hueco Tanks, the film stars Chris Sharma, Boone Speed, Steve Maisch, GP Salvo, Jason Kehl, Mike Beck, Tim Kemple and more. A...