/ Leonidio

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Exocet - on 07 Oct 2017
Currently in Kyparissi and moving on to Leonidio on Wednesday. Met some people who said that there are some great crags and some not so good ones there. Anybody got any recommendations- 5c to 6c. Preferably not super slabby. Prefer steep on good holds. Have only got 5 days so can't afford to waste time.
Elsier on 07 Oct 2017
In reply to Exocet:

It rained when we were there last year so didn't get to sample a huge range of areas.

But thought both twin caves and Theos areas were good in those grade ranges and not too slabby.
Exocet - on 08 Oct 2017
Thanks . Will give them a look.

Robert Durran - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Exocet:

I'll give this a bump since I'm off there on Friday. Mostly looking for good steep honest cranking, though my partner prefers hideous slabs and other weird stuff. About 6c to 7b ideally.
Simon Caldwell - on 10 Oct 2017
In reply to Exocet:

We're going next month so keeping an eye open for recommendations at the lower end of that range...
8dreams - on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Exocet:

My take is:
La Maison des Chevres - really nice slabs on one end (6a-7a) to really nice overhangs (6b-7a) to mixed slight overhanging and very technical 7b-8a. Strongly suggested sector
X-Mas - Only 1 minute approach (literally) . Huge overhang (roof) with short bouldery roots (7b-7c), long vertical 6a-6b+ , and 2 7a+ which are tufa-like-style overhang
Berliner Mauler - next to X-Mas plenty of vertical routes in the range 6a-6c.
King of Thrones - really nice slabs (up to 6c), amazing but also very hard 7b (slab/vertical), and plenty of other stuff. The holds are a bit on the sharper end but still recommend the sector.
Exocet - on 11 Oct 2017
Thanks all. Seems from the shortage of replies it's still a relatively unknown place so we will post our findings which start tomorrow. BTW. Had a good time in Kyparissi though at my grade 6 days meant I ticked all I could do. Grades not Kaly grades. Didn't manage any 6bs. Lots of brilliant 6a+s. Lovely place and I wouldn't have missed it for the world, but at the moment if you are leading 6c and above this is the pace to be. Loads of shade. And Cavo Kortia hotel is fab. Not Kaly prices (where is?) but very reasonable. Lovely apartments /studios attached to a great restaurant.

Elsier on 11 Oct 2017
In reply to Exocet:

It's probably also worth mentioning that there is some really nice climbing around Nafplio if you are passing on your way back to Athens. I thought Neraki crag in particular was superb. I did one of the best single pitch 6a+s I have done there, called Kolokotronis. In addition the Caves of Fratchi, but that's slabs rather than steep climbing. It's in quite a unique setting and the climbing is really good.
Andy Chubb - on 12 Oct 2017
In reply to Exocet:

I was in Leonidio earlier this year. At the lower end of your grade range I'd suggest Mad Wall, Orama, Rocspot and Douvari, all walkable from Leonidio. We also heard good things about Twin Caves. If you have a car then Skiadhianiko is well worth a visit with routes at all grades.
And a top tip for eating - go to Mitropoli (restaurant No 3 on P32 of the guidebook). Excellent traditional Greek food and very reasonable prices. Say hi to George for me.
I hope you have a good trip.

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