/ Leonidio Soft Touches

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Presley Whippet on 11 Feb 2019

I am off to Leonidio soon and I have read all about the notorious soft touches. 

This is a blatant plea for soft touches in the 7s.

Thanks for your recommendations, I look forward to basking in deluded glory. 

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smile youve won - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

Not to hijack your thread, but stuff in the high 6's would be appreciated too.

Cheers

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8dreams - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

The best way would be to look at the 8a.nu database. Normally, the most soft touches are also the most climbed routes + you can read from the comments if it is indeed the case.

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Jon Stewart - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

This one's quite soft: Zeus (7a)

But this one, just to the left, isn't: Psili Kamilopardali (7a) 

Post edited at 19:37
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Dan Jam - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

N.A.S.A. (7a) at Mars is probably a good candidate. Really fun climbing as well.  

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SGD - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to smile youve won:

A good place to start is 'up the back' on the local crags like Douvari, Orama or Hosptial. There are many routes with extensions that are around the 6c mark that tend to be techy rather than beefy. 3 that stand out for me are; Faka ext at Douvari (6c), Dionysos Plaka ext at Orama (6c) and a MP route at Hospital called Saime, I think the 1st Pitch goes at around butch 6a+ but the 2nd is a contrasting 6c on grippy orange rock. (3rd is 7a(?) and traverses so I didn't do that one) You can lower back to the 1st lower off and re-thread it to get back to the ground as I think its about 45/50m for the 2 pitches.

Another crag I remember doing a couple of really good 6c's(+) was Dornroschen - again techy rather than butch.

I'm not sure I would call any of these 'soft' (maybe Faka and Saime??) but they were all good.

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Presley Whippet on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

Thanks for the replies so far, keep them coming please. 

I am intrigued by the number of dislikes my post got. Every article about Leonidio I have read mentions soft touches but doesn't name them, so it seemed an obvious question. 

Is it that the dislikes are happily deluded in their climbing ability following a trip to Greece and don't want their bubble burst? 

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Christheclimber on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

> I am off to Leonidio soon and I have read all about the notorious soft touches. 

I don’t remember many soft touches in Leonidio but did find some undergrading.

Have a great trip, there is some super climbing.

Post edited at 15:30
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joeldering on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

seems like the 2018 guidebook has a bunch of downgrades, so i guess stick with the 2016 one if you can?

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Robert Durran - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

Well I am in Leonidio right now and sandbags seem much more common than soft touches. But maybe it's just that I am climbing shit! I don't recall things being soft on my previous visit either. Makari (7a) at Sabaton yesterday did feel amenable at 7a (I wouldn't have complained with 6c+) and also very good if you like good honest cranking. There are supposed to be others there too.

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dominic o - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Presley Whippet:

We had a couple of weeks in Leonidio and Kyparissi 18 months ago and I managed to clock up a dozen or so onsights of 7a or thereabouts. If you scroll through my blogposts from the trip you'll get specific route recommendations https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/greece/leonidio/

As others have pointed out  there have been quite a few re-grades in the latest version of the guide (mostly downward) but in general the grading is still pretty friendly / fair, though also quite erratic (as with any fast-developing area). There are a lot of 40m rope-stretchers, with sustained but never desperate moves, so if you're like me and an old-school "trad-climbing sports climber" who can't boulder for toffee but can hang on for ages, then there's a lot to suit you.

We're back in Leonidio now and still hunting soft-touch 7as, so keep an eye on the blog. Today's finds were at Panagia Cave: Edlinger gets 7a in the Aris book, 7b on UKC and 6c in the new guide. 6c+ maybe (?), but awesome anyway! At the far right of the sector is a new Piola route "Solo righthand" 40m 7a and pretty straight forward if you just keep plugging away  Enjoy! 

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dominic o - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Robert Durran:

Hey Robert - that's a coincidence! We kept bumping into you and Matt last time we were here. Hopefully catch up over the next couple of weeks.  

Cheers, Dom 

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Robert Durran - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to dominic o:

I think we met you here Oct '17! So might bump into you again this week. Planning Hot Rock tomorrow if rain and cold don't spoil things..

Edit: Our posts crossed..... We are just here for a week, leaving Saturday. 

Post edited at 19:53
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Presley Whippet on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to dominic o:

Cheers, really helpful

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heleno - on 13 Feb 2019
In reply to smile youve won:

> Not to hijack your thread, but stuff in the high 6's would be appreciated too.

Yellow Submarine 6c is never really hard though long and sustained.

Agree with what others have said that it's certainly not all soft touches, though some sectors have softer touches than others. 

Post edited at 09:32
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dominic o - on 13 Feb 2019
In reply to Robert Durran:

Not sure about "Hot Rock" today - might have to make do with "Pi$$ Wet Through Rock" by the looks of things ;-) 

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Robert Durran - on 13 Feb 2019
In reply to dominic o:

> Not sure about "Hot Rock" today.

Indeed. We turned back in heavy snow trying to take the inland road to Kiparissi - poor choice...... Ended up at Clash of the Titans cave while the sleet swept past outside!

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Presley Whippet on 13 Feb 2019
In reply to Robert Durran:

Crikey, sorry to hear that. 

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dominic o - on 08:41 Fri
In reply to dominic o:

In more developing "soft touch 7a" news, it's worth checking out Theos Pillar and Theos Cave - I managed 4 yesterday (somewhere near a PB - and I don't think I'm going that well!)

Inspiration and pics here https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/02/14/leonidio-theos-cave-the-place-to-be/

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Blanche DuBois - on 10:01 Fri
In reply to Presley Whippet:

> I am intrigued by the number of dislikes my post got. 

> Is it that the dislikes are happily deluded in their climbing ability following a trip to Greece and don't want their bubble burst? 

Take a trip to some of the crags listed in the Athens guide then report back.  Greece is not Kalymnos.  In fact Kalymnos is no longer Kalymnos in that respect.

More likely a reflection on viewing the merits of a route based on how easy you find it for the grade, as opposed to how good the route is intrinsically.  As you yourself suggest, you're only fooling yourself by focusing on "soft-touches".  

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krikoman - on 10:34 Fri
In reply to Presley Whippet:

Aren't you just cheating yourself looking for "soft touches" ?

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Presley Whippet on 17:22 Fri
In reply to krikoman:

Of course and making no secret about it, unlike many others. 

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krikoman - on 21:36 Sat
In reply to Presley Whippet:

> Of course and making no secret about it, unlike many others. 


Don't judge yourself by what others do.

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Presley Whippet on 23:36 Sat
In reply to krikoman:

There is no authority but myself

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bouldery bits - on 00:07 Sun
In reply to krikoman:

> Aren't you just cheating yourself looking for "soft touches" ?

Predictable.

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bouldery bits - on 00:10 Sun
In reply to Presley Whippet:

> There is no authority but myself

Hear hear!

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Robert Durran - on 08:05 Sun
In reply to krikoman:

> Aren't you just cheating yourself looking for "soft touches" ?

Not if you are looking for routes that are correctly graded but low in the grade (as opposed to routes which are incorrectly undergraded).

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krikoman - on 09:21 Mon
In reply to Robert Durran:

> (as opposed to routes which are incorrectly undergraded).

But isn't that what most people mean when they ask for "soft touches"?

Since the OP mentioned "notorious soft touches" it sounds like they're looking for soft ouches in an under-graded area, a double whammy one might say.

Still it's up to them what they do and how they climb.

I've belayed people who've rested on every move and asked for tight top-ropes to make the next move, who then think they've climbed a 6b!

I don't get it, who are they trying to impress, what do they get out of it, and what's the point?

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krikoman - on 09:23 Mon
In reply to bouldery bits:

> Predictable.


Ditto

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Robert Durran - on 09:52 Mon
In reply to krikoman:

> But isn't that what most people mean when they ask for "soft touches"?

I'd have said not. Without qualification, I'd take it to mean bottom end of the grade.

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sheppy on 12:05 Mon
In reply to Presley Whippet:

Didn't find many soft touches at all, are you sure you aren't thinking of Kalymnos?

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bouldery bits - on 15:14 Mon
In reply to krikoman:

> Ditto

Hahaha! Nice

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krikoman - on 15:14 Mon
In reply to Robert Durran:

> I'd have said not. Without qualification, I'd take it to mean bottom end of the grade.


You might what to re-read the OP and tell me how you can conclude this from that post.

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