/ Leonidio Soft Touches
I am off to Leonidio soon and I have read all about the notorious soft touches.
This is a blatant plea for soft touches in the 7s.
Thanks for your recommendations, I look forward to basking in deluded glory.
Not to hijack your thread, but stuff in the high 6's would be appreciated too.
The best way would be to look at the 8a.nu database. Normally, the most soft touches are also the most climbed routes + you can read from the comments if it is indeed the case.
A good place to start is 'up the back' on the local crags like Douvari, Orama or Hosptial. There are many routes with extensions that are around the 6c mark that tend to be techy rather than beefy. 3 that stand out for me are; Faka ext at Douvari (6c), Dionysos Plaka ext at Orama (6c) and a MP route at Hospital called Saime, I think the 1st Pitch goes at around butch 6a+ but the 2nd is a contrasting 6c on grippy orange rock. (3rd is 7a(?) and traverses so I didn't do that one) You can lower back to the 1st lower off and re-thread it to get back to the ground as I think its about 45/50m for the 2 pitches.
Another crag I remember doing a couple of really good 6c's(+) was Dornroschen - again techy rather than butch.
I'm not sure I would call any of these 'soft' (maybe Faka and Saime??) but they were all good.
Thanks for the replies so far, keep them coming please.
I am intrigued by the number of dislikes my post got. Every article about Leonidio I have read mentions soft touches but doesn't name them, so it seemed an obvious question.
Is it that the dislikes are happily deluded in their climbing ability following a trip to Greece and don't want their bubble burst?
> I am off to Leonidio soon and I have read all about the notorious soft touches.
I don’t remember many soft touches in Leonidio but did find some undergrading.
Have a great trip, there is some super climbing.
seems like the 2018 guidebook has a bunch of downgrades, so i guess stick with the 2016 one if you can?
Well I am in Leonidio right now and sandbags seem much more common than soft touches. But maybe it's just that I am climbing shit! I don't recall things being soft on my previous visit either. Makari (7a) at Sabaton yesterday did feel amenable at 7a (I wouldn't have complained with 6c+) and also very good if you like good honest cranking. There are supposed to be others there too.
We had a couple of weeks in Leonidio and Kyparissi 18 months ago and I managed to clock up a dozen or so onsights of 7a or thereabouts. If you scroll through my blogposts from the trip you'll get specific route recommendations https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/greece/leonidio/
As others have pointed out there have been quite a few re-grades in the latest version of the guide (mostly downward) but in general the grading is still pretty friendly / fair, though also quite erratic (as with any fast-developing area). There are a lot of 40m rope-stretchers, with sustained but never desperate moves, so if you're like me and an old-school "trad-climbing sports climber" who can't boulder for toffee but can hang on for ages, then there's a lot to suit you.
We're back in Leonidio now and still hunting soft-touch 7as, so keep an eye on the blog. Today's finds were at Panagia Cave: Edlinger gets 7a in the Aris book, 7b on UKC and 6c in the new guide. 6c+ maybe (?), but awesome anyway! At the far right of the sector is a new Piola route "Solo righthand" 40m 7a and pretty straight forward if you just keep plugging away Enjoy!
Hey Robert - that's a coincidence! We kept bumping into you and Matt last time we were here. Hopefully catch up over the next couple of weeks.
I think we met you here Oct '17! So might bump into you again this week. Planning Hot Rock tomorrow if rain and cold don't spoil things..
Edit: Our posts crossed..... We are just here for a week, leaving Saturday.
Cheers, really helpful
> Not to hijack your thread, but stuff in the high 6's would be appreciated too.
Yellow Submarine 6c is never really hard though long and sustained.
Agree with what others have said that it's certainly not all soft touches, though some sectors have softer touches than others.
Not sure about "Hot Rock" today - might have to make do with "Pi$$ Wet Through Rock" by the looks of things ;-)
> Not sure about "Hot Rock" today.
Indeed. We turned back in heavy snow trying to take the inland road to Kiparissi - poor choice...... Ended up at Clash of the Titans cave while the sleet swept past outside!
Crikey, sorry to hear that.
In more developing "soft touch 7a" news, it's worth checking out Theos Pillar and Theos Cave - I managed 4 yesterday (somewhere near a PB - and I don't think I'm going that well!)
Inspiration and pics here https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/02/14/leonidio-theos-cave-the-place-to-be/
> I am intrigued by the number of dislikes my post got.
> Is it that the dislikes are happily deluded in their climbing ability following a trip to Greece and don't want their bubble burst?
Take a trip to some of the crags listed in the Athens guide then report back. Greece is not Kalymnos. In fact Kalymnos is no longer Kalymnos in that respect.
More likely a reflection on viewing the merits of a route based on how easy you find it for the grade, as opposed to how good the route is intrinsically. As you yourself suggest, you're only fooling yourself by focusing on "soft-touches".
Aren't you just cheating yourself looking for "soft touches" ?
Of course and making no secret about it, unlike many others.
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