/ Llangollen climbing

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Max factor - on 11 Apr 2018

I always get the feeling I ought to know this area better, being well placed to break up the drive back the long drive from the mountains and with better weather, but so far have only been to Trevor rocks. 

Couple of questions; what is the lastest guide (including for monument boulders pls), and  recommendations for good low grade trad. Worlds end looks good on the crag database, but might be a bit grim this time of year being W facing?



james.slater - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to Max factor:

The new rockfax Clywd limestone guide has all the trad and sport in it, but not sure which guide the monument boulders would be in. 

Low grade (and good) trad is somewhat scarce in the valley, but there are some neat gems scattered along most of the crags. Pinfold probably suits your request the best. It faces south-ish, and has the highest number of HVS and under. Kinberg, Toccata and Mitsuki groove are the ones i've done and are worth checking out!

ripper - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to james.slater:

I remember Kinberg being a good route but feeling decidedly spooky - partly because the whole crag feels quite exposed, with the ground dropping away so steeply, and partly because most of the rock on the route seemed to be balanced on what looked like a smallish semi-detached block. That was a few years back mind, so if it's still standing maybe more solid than I thought

Max factor - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to ripper:

Thanks for the comments. Picked up the Rockfax at the wall last night, figure it's worth the investment. Routes like Digitron look going out of the way for, and hoping it will 'save' some of those days when you wake up and it's raining in the mountains. 

ripper - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Max factor:

Yes, Digitron is ace - definitely worth the walk

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