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Mallorca Climbing Permits

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 RupertD 10 Sep 2019

The spectre of needing permits to climb in some areas of Mallorca was raised a few years ago but not much seemed to come of it or the system wasn't enforced. It seems that there is a new system that started on 1/8/19 and I have heard through social media and in the spanish climbing press of people being stopped whilst climbing and searched. Does anyone have any better understanding of the situation? We were planning a trip in October. Some links:

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=es&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.desnivel.com%2Fescalada-roca%2Fson-delincuentes-los-escaladores-mallorquines%2F%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR06-v-_v0qBptc2Mx96M3NsR8-w24obQYvKZHEItJAYXVOAI6CDYF3AabU

https://www.facebook.com/AgentsMediAmbIB/posts/101351091257761

In reply to RupertD:

Hi Rupert

I will email some of my contacts on the island.

Alan

 RupertD 10 Sep 2019
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

A bit more digging suggests that this is the same system as has been in place for years except that it is being enforced. The application process is in Catalan, is fairly opaque and seems to be set up for commercial activities.

In reply to RupertD:

I had a couple of replies and have put this together - https://www.rockfax.com/news/2019/09/11/mallorca-access-restrictions/

Sounds like a crap situation. Free permits, you need them to climb, here's how to get them, no-one responds, no permits received.

I think Derek's advice sounds good though.

Alan

 RupertD 11 Sep 2019
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

Thanks Alan. I have been in touch with the "Agents de Medi Ambient de les Illes Balears." they encouraged me to apply for a "free permit" but  went silent when I asked them how long it would take to be processed, simply saying "it depends."

In your article you suggest using Google translate on the documentation - worth pointing out that the documents are in Catalan and not Spanish. The Spanish translation won't work.

Post edited at 10:25
In reply to RupertD:

> In your article you suggest using Google translate on the documentation - worth pointing out that the documents are in Catalan and not Spanish. The Spanish translation won't work.

Thanks, now corrected to Catalan.

Alan

 Johnlenham 13 Sep 2019
In reply to RupertD:

Damn, So Im heading there on the 28th with 5 others and well it covers like 80% of the mountain range.. 

I hadn't realized it was in catalan so will have to go and re translate it.

Not really sure how its going to work if they never respond to you...

 RupertD 13 Sep 2019
In reply to Johnlenham:

They have a facebook page, Agents de Medi Ambient de les Illes Balears, and seem ok about responding to messages sent on there (in that you get a prompt reply, rather than they offer any useful advice). You could try and contact them and see if you get any further than I did.

 Johnlenham 15 Sep 2019
In reply to RupertD:

Ive sent them a message and linked my documents in Drive and also sent my copys to the email address.

No idea what the Expos lined bit was about so left it blank.... 

It would be nice to have a catalan speaker read it and tell you what you need..or the document written in english by the goverment lol

 monkey man 15 Sep 2019
In reply to Johnlenham:

Im told the Expos is in case you needed to explain the reasons for the permits, didn't seem necessary to me. Also am yet to receive a reply. 

 Johnlenham 16 Sep 2019
In reply to monkey man:

I got a response on FB telling me that section is for you to request what you want in, so they said in my case it's climbing even though beneath it it says again lol.

I've had no response either.

Post edited at 11:13
 Johnlenham 16 Sep 2019
In reply to Johnlenham:

To add to this the people in OP have told me to speak to 

http://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/ca/paratge_natural_de_la_serra_de_tramuntana-21742/

About it. Ive contacted them on messenger so let's see how this goes.

 Johnlenham 26 Sep 2019
In reply to RupertD:

Still had no shred of response. Some top tier system in place here lol 

In reply to Johnlenham:

> Still had no shred of response. Some top tier system in place here lol 

I don't think you will get one. The latest report I have is that they are not sending out the permits.

Alan

 trish1968 27 Sep 2019
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

I've just sent off for mine for a xmas trip lets see if we hear anything.

If they are not sending them out does that mean they are not needed?

In reply to trish1968:

> If they are not sending them out does that mean they are not needed?

No, it appears to just be the policy - require permits to restrict something, and make it really effective by not issuing the permits.  

However we aren't getting many reports of climbers actually being moved on. The worry is, if you do get moved on, then it makes things awkward for the rest of your trip since once is ok, but second time could be a problem if they impose fines. There are of course crags outside the Tramuntana (the ones not between pages 82 and 211) and also I would be incredibly surprised if anyone appeared at Es Verger, Penyal d'es Grau, Grau des Ruc or El Fumat since these places are very remote.

Alan

 trish1968 27 Sep 2019
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

thanks for that info Alan.

If I hear anything I'll post it.

Cheers

Trish

 Johnlenham 08 Oct 2019
In reply to RupertD:

So Ive been and returned, was a great time.

Never heard a word from the email, bit of a an necessary stress.

We also only went to two crags in the mountain permit zone I think it was seret (Very good) and.... one where you park basically on the side of a tiny mountain road (ironically behind what we googled was a government mountain rescue range rover) but I only made it up one route before it started raining and we abandoned it. Never saw anyone but other tourist climbers doing mad shit like belaying and taking both hands off the rope, top roping off one ring and so on. 

As a bit of free advice for anyone going

 I would suggest staying more central like Inca or closer to Palma unless you climb 7+ on the regular as alot of the 6 range crags are nearer the central and southern end, so with us staying north most crags ended up being 50mins away 

Puig st martin everyone but me got annihilated by mosquito's on day one lol and it cost us 110 euros for spray, antihistamines and cream. Stuff that costs like £15 back home and wasnt mentioned atall in the guide book. Apparently they also have zebra mosquitos and such so yeah worth taking some mega DEET stuff.

Their bolting style takes some getting used to.... some climbs have 2 1/2- 3 meters between bolts, that wasnt normal for us atleast. 

Back in the Wye valley youd have like 10/12 QDs for a 15/20m route. I did one 22M that I used 6 for  as an example. 

Sometimes the guidebook doesnt match up, sometimes the anchors arnt there atall (lol), alot of them are chains and some are weird rods with a chain ring that look like they are put in with chewing gum.

Would go back 100% tho

 capoap 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Johnlenham:

I ran a 450HP RIB doing fast trips, towing doughnut's ect. Every year it took forever to get a permit. The 1 guy who had to pass I part of the permit was always on holiday and his office was in Madrid. The local port officer was only interested in back hander's .  I had a portfolio so heavy you needed a wheel barrow to take it with you and it was called "The Kings Ransom" as that's what it cost.   The local inspector of permits had a manual typewriter (yes you could watch the keys slowly hit the paper) who when he went for his coffee covered it up in a cover.  And the coffee brakes took 30 mins every hour, and dont forget they all piss of home at 15-00 never to be seen again  that day.  And my secretory had an understanding of Spanish 

And even the solicitors only take CASH!!!!!!!  Receipts they will be to the post. Still waiting  for a receipt for the final huge tax bill i settled about 4 years back.  Gave up in the end as the hassle wasn't worth it.


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