Mallorca DWS

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I’m thinking about heading to Mallorca a little later in the year to spend some time climbing. Really want to have a go at DWS but am also keen to Boulder/sport climb. I climb roughly around the 7a mark - Is there enough in Mallorca to keep me busy for a couple of months?

Whats the best time of the year to go? I was thinking September maybe to drag my summer out as long as possible!

Any advice or recommendations is greatly appreciated. 

 George Frisby 29 May 2021
In reply to Little Butch:

September is good for DWS as the sea is warm whilst not being quite so hot during the day as mid summer. Plenty of dws is the 6s, but it does look like it gets better the harder you climb. 

In reply to George Frisby:

That was exactly my thoughts! 

 climberchristy 30 May 2021
In reply to Little Butch:

> Is there enough in Mallorca to keep me busy for a couple of months?

Put simply, yes! Buy the Rockfax guide and you'll find there is loads. I don't DWS or boulder much but the sport routes alone will keep you busy for ages. I particularly like Puig De Garaffa and Caimari. Fraguel is brilliant but nothing that easy there. 

Little note...grades in Mallorca can tend to be a little bit harsher than on mainland Spain. 

In reply to Little Butch:

September, take a bunch of mates and something that floats. Cala Barques is a dreamland for an introduction to deep water soloing, but there are many many other places to go, just be more careful as they’re not all as sheltered as CB. 

In reply to Little Butch:

Cheers for the replies!

 Iamgregp 05 Jun 2021
In reply to Little Butch:

Yes, absolutely loads of quality sport climbing out there, there’s also trad, multi pitch etc...  You’ll not run out of things to do, even if you’re there for a couple of months!

In reply to Iamgregp:

Perfect! I’ve ordered the Rockfax guide so I’ll have a look when that turns up. Anybody got specific route recommendations? I’ll have a car there so not too important but which areas best to stay in? Looking on air B and B now...

 Iamgregp 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Little Butch:

Mallorca's pretty big island and good crags can be found all over the island so it's not as important where you stay as you'll end up doing a fair amount of driving anyway so it's good that you have a car.

I've stayed in a villa in the middle of nowhere (there were loads of us and it had a pool so this was great), and in Soller.  Can defo recommend Soller to stay in, it a fair size town with, not overly touristy and surrounded by beautiful hills, lots of people there for the walking and outdoors activities.  Plus if you fancy it, you're only a 10 minute drive from Port de Soller which has beaches and bars etc.

Crags wise, Sa Gubia is fantastic.  Lots of good single pitch stuff in all sorts of styles, some multi pitch, some of which are a bit "Adventure Style" and need trad gear, Cala Magraner is well worth a visit as it's right on a beach... I could go on but trust me there's loads...  Some stuff here to whet you appetite... 

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