UKC

Hey!

We're heading to Mallorca for a week at the end of Feb, and would be super grateful if anyone could take the time to give some advice on the below topics equally if anyone is around at the end of Feb and needs someone to climb with, feel free to drop us a message!

Multi pitch

We're not confident 6 climbers, so looking at MP options, Albahida seems the best/only option - there seems to be conflicting advice online/the guidebook regarding trad gear. Do we need it? Has anyone done it recently who can advise how crucial trad gear is? Can anyone recommend any other MPs on Mallorca that don't hit 6, or is Albahida the only option?

Crags

As I said we're not confident 6 climbers, so basing crag options on 4/5 - we'd love to do some decent sea cliff crags, and have narrowed it down to Cala Magraner, La Creveta, Torre d'en Beu and Tijuana as the top ones next to the sea. Are there any other sea crags we might have missed that would have enough routes to keep us busy? Otherwise we think that Sa Gubia, Cas Catalas, S'Estret, Puig de Garrafa and Sa Mola Felanitx are inland options for us - any recommendations as to whether we should prioritise some/include others?

Gear

We have a 70m rope and 16 quickdraws - will this be enough or is it worth our while getting more QDs? We're happy to miss out on the occasional climb if it means not buying a longer rope, but if you think we'd end up missing out loads of climbs please let us know! And the trad question from above - will we need trad gear for many routes apart from Albahida?

Thanks so much in advance if you are able to answer any of these - hopefully one day we'll be in a position where we're experienced enough to help out other climbers!

Thanks again

Sorry, one more question - is there any decent Via Ferrata in Mallorca? Research suggests there's one route that is blocked off - has anyone been there recently who can advise/point us towards a guide please? Thanks again!!

Woah, Mallorca is proving popular at the moment. Have a search of the forums, there's a lot of info out there. Also search using 'Majorca' seeing as that spelling is still being used.

There doesn't seem to be much in the way of contemporary multipitch options on the island despite the presence of mountains and several tall crags. I guess it is a combination of access issues and a switch in tastes toward sport and DWS for which Mallorca is probably better suited. Sa Gubia has the greatest concentration of 2+ pitch routes, as you know. Albahida (known also as Gubia Normal) is the standout 4+/VS 4c and you will need trad gear. I'd recommend at least 6 slings, a set of nuts and a couple of hexes or medium cams will see you right. Half of the belays are fully bolted, the rest are either good threads and nuts at locations of your choosing or one/two old bolts which can be backed up. The route finding is slightly tricky in places, and the pitches seem to be slightly longer than that quoted in the guide (you'll be fine with a 70m rope) but just follow the obvious wear on the rock up the best VS4c line and you can't go far wrong. You'll likely have several other teams on there with you too... There is miraculously nearly no polish and the rock is super grippy.

Quan es sa Jose 5a is a nice, shorter newly bolted variant to the left, while round the corner is La Ley del Deseo 5c is a great full-length route around to the right which is fully bolted. The first pitch or two is polished but you'll get up it. You might want to take a small rack on those too just to keep up confidence on the slight runouts. All the belays on these are well bolted from memory.

The coastal crags you mention will see you right. Inland, don't miss the lovely Caimari and Calvia crags too... Vall Verde is a really chilled setting for a first/last day too. 70m and 16 QDs is plenty. Not likely to need trad gear anywhere other than Sa Gubia. Do not know of any extant via ferrata.

Have fun and enjoy.

Agree that 16 draws is plenty.

Just to mention that Creveta isn't really a seacliff as such. Can't recall the detail but I think it's a good few hundred metres above the sea.

I do seem to recall that it has quite a few lovely easy(ish) routes. Much recommended.

Beware of the wind though. We were lucky last February trip that the wind was from the east and so it was sheltered.