UKC

Prospecting Margalef for a soon visit. I see there's loads to do in the higher grades on N/E sectors (Tarragona Climbs) but can't see so much around 5c/6a which my lad will appreciate. I know there are many other equipped sectors - but are they suitable - worth buying the local topo ??

Thanks

In reply to LeeWood:

There is a lot to go at around those grades in the shade, the Tarragona guide is selective so probably omits a lot of it.

I've nearly finished updating the Margalef crag page  Margalef - Zona del Panta North with all the climbs from the latest guide book so it's a good place to look. All sectors are accurately placed on the map and i've tried to indicate dcrag direction or times that the crag is in sun in the description.
It's a bit of a beast to navigate as it's all on one page but have a look at Can Pesafigues, Can Mansettes (morning/early p.m), sector Reggae, chorreras, Can regino, bloc del porc.

A lot of the 'sunny' crags can also be climbed early morning or on a cloudy day, opening up more options like Cami de l'ermita, el toboggan, punta espadelles.

Because of the style of the rock, many routes start with a hard or steep pull from the floor with easier climbing above, so if your son is happy to swallow his pride and get a leg up over the first hard moves then even more routes become accessible.

In reply to LeeWood:

Another vote for Bloc del Porc - nice little spot with a range of the grades you are looking for. Probably only useful for 1 day though. 

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for the recommendations - and all your efforts with the log  - its a big page !

Can you give me pros and cons for the 2 campsites - are there any mozzie probs ?

In reply to LeeWood:

I've been in November and February before, and even then you spend most of the time at the shady crags. I'd go elsewhere in the summer.

The campsite by the dam is very basic, you'd be better off on the one by the village. It's still cheap, but has a cafe with bar and wi-fi, showers and toilets where you don't have to squat. And obviously you can walk into the village, food at Cafe Vernet is really good and cheap, and you have the shop for other stuff.

The new local photo topo guide is just out, and is sold at the refugi.

In reply to LeeWood:

Hi Lee,

The latest Tarragona Climbs guidebook was produced with cooperation from Vicent and Maya — the authors of (one of the two!) recent fully inclusive Margalef guidebooks. 

Unlike certain guidebook publishers I prefer to work with the locals rather than against them, so we left out lots of nice sectors, particularly those suited to warm weather conditions. Loads of reasonable stuff in the shade... definitely get the local guidebook.

As for camping: the site below the reservoir is the cheapest but it's basically just a picnic area with toilets and barbecue facilities. The campsite in the village has full toilet/shower facilities, wifi and a bar.

Pete.

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

I was beginning to think you got carried away show-casing latest developments for the super-wads delighted to hear there's a good motive, and  thanks for the other info.

PS. recently enjoyed new routes at your new S-facing sector at Camarasa - as presented on the lleidaclimbs blog    

In reply to LeeWood:

There are two new guidebooks to Margalef, both produced in 2018 by locals, we have the colour photo one which is excellent. Camping wise as comments above, but also Jose who runs both sites offers significant staged discounts for the town site for stays of over 2 weeks, 4 weeks etc. You probably already know that summer will probably be too hot even in the shade, unless there's some wind. Not been in summer but both sites are near to rivers so mossies a possibility, flies can be an issue when it's warm. 

Currently low 20's and too hot in direct sun, but nice conditions in the shade. No direct experience of the grades your looking at but chatting with a friend who's partner was seeking similar, they did struggle to find sufficient and most did seem to be on sunny crags.

In reply to bandit12:

Good info thnx , it won't be full summer when we go so hopefully a happy compromise. It must be cooler at the higher sectors - I've noted the E facing sector Cova de Cavall - TC which does appear to offer a couple of days in the easier grades; then there is Chorerras which stays cool all day. 

Nice inspiration - discounts on a 4wk stay - I wish  

In reply to LeeWood:

Just been down ... but did not camp; both sites have tent-unfriendly gravel pitches - good for camping cars. Though the upper dam site has poorer wash facilities it has better trees/shade and stone picnic tables. A hammock would be useful. Had a pleasant stay in the refuge - guardians v helpful.

The climbing is variable - polished and fingery bulging starts with high clips at worst; at best, steeper orange rock with generous positive holds. Clipstick useful everywhere. Especially enjoyed sectors Pesafigues, Chorerras, Espadelles, & Culample4. Sorry to have missed Regino.

Great scenery with seasonal acoustics from the frogs and nightingales

 

In reply to LeeWood: Vilanova de Prades is only about 30 minutes' drive from Margalef. It tends to be much quieter and has some nice sectors with easier climbing alongside harder climbing. Sector Pitufos might suit...

Vilanova de Prades - Camping

Vilanova de Prades - Out of Town

 

In reply to Nige M:

We had a day at Vilanova de Prades last week and it was as you say very quiet - in fact no other climbers. However, despite facing SE, it kept the sun all day and was rather hot, and can only really get hotter from now!

In reply to jon:

I notice you have been to El Penitent - worth a visit (in the right season) ?

In reply to LeeWood:

Yes, thought it was great. Had shade on some parts quite early. Might go back there soon!

In reply to LeeWood:

Hi, 

I can't comment on aspect, as I visited Margalef in November, but I found the following areas good at grade 5.

Bloc del Porc, Ermita, Can Llepafils, Cingles del Moli

It might be worth checking out Arboli too, Can Mansa had fun 4s/5s.

 

In reply to amy:

For your next visit - we found good 5s at Cova-Caval (after 15h summer), Chorerras, and Totxo-Vi. Closer bolts good for 1st leads.