UKC

Heading to Montanejos soon. I hear the grades are steep so I'm counting on going down 1 or 2 grades. Does anyone have any recommendations, especially for multipitches, that don't require trad gear, in the 5+/6a range? My friend might have some nuts/cams by the time I get there, but given his very little experience in trad and his too optimistic approach to trad grades, I think I'd rather mostly stick to bolts (unless it's something like a VDiff where I can take the opportunity for him to get some trad mileage without casualties).

Any recommendations welcomed!

In reply to Cati:

The grades used to be a little steep but nowadays they are consistent with norms but they aren't soft touches.  However, don't be fooled into thinking La Luna (classic 8 pitch mega route) anywhere near the 6b it is given here.

It's more long single pitch sport territory than long multipitches or trad but there are many two pitch sport routes that you simply ab-off without taking your lunch with you.

There's a bunch of easier stuff around the grades you ask in the main valley just a little way up.

It's very pretty, generally very quite and the swimming is good (although stretches the definition of hot).

In reply to gravy:

Thanks for that! I guess we'll stick mostly to single pitch then. I was asking because I found a bunch of long multipitches online but many are either too hard or require trad gear (http://www.lanochedelloro.es/index.php/montanejos/). After opening more than 20 of those topos I thought it might be easier to get first-hand experience tips from people here.

Coincidentally, La Luna is given a 6b+ on the topo found on that site. But then Pericondrio Tragal is given a V+ there and a 6b here! I'll start a bit conservatively and see what the deal with grades is once I'm there...

In reply to Cati:

Pericondrio Tragal definitely isn’t V+. Glad I was seconding the traverse pitch, with a belay above! 

In reply to gravy:

In my experience this was sometimes the case but not always. Done post-1990ish or recently rebolted? Then it will be reasonable if hard for the grade. Done in the 1980s? Expect spaced bolts and serious under-grading.

The rock is often similar to that found in Provence so expect technical climbing with lots of water-worn runnels. If you’ve never climbed this sort of limestone before it won’t make the grades feel any easier. 

It is indeed a pretty spot with a bit of weird post-industrial landscape thrown in, very much worth a visit. 

In reply to seankenny:

Well, I guess worst case scenario I'll just go for a swim!

Side note: some people call it Montalejos ("lejos" meaning "far" in Spanish), so that gives me an idea of what to expect in terms of runouts if even the locals consider the bolts to be too far...

In reply to Cati:

Don’t worry I’m not a bold climber and I really enjoyed it. Just had to retreat from some things which I didn’t like the look of.

In reply to Cati:

Montanejos is an absolute delight - every bit as extensive and impressive as nearby Chulilla, but with a tenth as many climbers. It seems to be a matter of being "out of fashion". Yes, some of the "Old school" areas have sandbag grades (but that's every bit as true for Chulilla) and the guidebook author, Ernesto Lopez, has consciously been trying to address this in the latest guidebook. Check out some of the newly developed areas on the road towards Montan. Caverna Magica, Sector Mazmorres and especially El Laborinto des Dragones - Spectacular!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/02/28/montanejos-laberinto-de-los-dra...

There's also plenty of scope within about 45mins from Montanejos including Jerica and a bunch of less well-known crags, which are worth exploring. Here's a week's worth from a trip earlier this year: https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/01/20/rock-hungry-and-windswept-climb...

Enjoy! Cheers, Dom 

In reply to Cati:

I thought they were near on a number grade out. But it is a while ago.