/ Morocco

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jkfb - on 19 Sep 2013
Looking for some advice about climbing in Morocco....

A friend and I are planning a week long trip in November.

We can climb F5-6 or trad severe-HVS.

Is there plenty of scope in Todra for sport climbing at the easier end of the spectrum? Or what about if we were to go for trad in Tafraoute? Looks awesome but worried that it might be a bit harder than we can confidently get up. But perhaps there's enough to keep us occupied for a week.

Any other advice gratefully appreciated!


Jones_88 - on 20 Sep 2013
In reply to jkfb:
I wet to morocco for 2 weeks last year In November with a friend and it was awesome. We didn't climb harder than VS. 2 weeks wasn't long enough - bring a few large cams if you go.
Hire a car and the anti atlas is your oyster.
We based or self in Tafraoute for a few days to start with and just camped up in the mountains every other day to save the effort of driving.

Steve Broadbents guide book was brilliant for a few crags not in the new morocco rock book by Emma and Paul. There is a new Tafraoute guide book out to get as well. If you were going I would buy all 3 because they look nice and it's handy in case you loose one whilst out there.

Some but not much single pitch and lots of big mountain routes and some short multipitch routes. Robin hood rocks and ksar rock are great places to warm up on the first day or two to get used to the area and rock.
Just be aware the routes have seen very little traffic compared to routes in the uk so they can be a bit loose.

Otherwise its the perfect place to go for winter sun. F*ck sport climbing go for an adventure.
You might even bag a F.A as there's so much rock to go at!
Jones_88 - on 20 Sep 2013
pete johnson - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to jkfb:
There's loads for you to go atin the Tafraoute area. Check out Morocco Rock .com and facebook page
Superb guide book, short listed for the Banff book prize, by Emma Alsford and Paul Donnithorne detailing all the routes on the north side of the Anti Atlas. Plus a regularly updated supplement free if you buy the book.
Steve Broadbent - on 01 Oct 2013
In reply to jkfb:
Well, whatever you decide you'll have a good time! Todra is a cool place, though most of the longer (and better) stuff is F6b and above. There are a few single pitch crags with more easier routes, and two or three long easy classics at about F5.
There's heaps of easy stuff in Tafraout, so don't be worried about it being too hard. In the new guidebook there are well over 1000 routes below E1, and many of the very best climbs in the region are Severe to HVS. If you're climbing VS in Tafraout then there's enough for lots of trips, let alone a week!
For a bit more info about the type and grade of climbing, try:
garethb - on 02 Oct 2013
Im also thinking of a trip towards the second half of November/early December, any comment on what the day and night temperatures are like? is early december leaving it too late to be warmish in the day?

Steve Broadbent - on 02 Oct 2013
In reply to garethb:
Well... their weather varies just like in the UK, so I wouldn't like to put a figure on how warm / cold it's going to be..
At any time between November and March we've had really warm sunshine, and we've also had days when there's been cloud cover and a cold wind, meaning your really want a long-sleeved thermal or softshell whilst climbing. We've been up in Afantinzar in February and been glad of a fleece hat and gloves.
I guess in answer to your question... No, it's certainly not too late. We've had many trips over Christmas and New Year when it's been comfortable T-shirt weather, as the sun is still hot at this time of year. However, make sure you take some warm and windproof gear because the shade is cold at 2000m!
Overnight temperatures frequently fall to freezing point at that time of year, meaning that getting stuck out on the hill can be a serious issue - make sure you have warm clothing and a survival bag at the very least if attempting long routes.
Oh, and remember to take a fleece for the evenings. Tafraout is at 1000m and the temperature drops quickly when the sun goes down.
Have a great trip
Climate stats here:
garethb - on 02 Oct 2013
Ta Steve, hoepfully can use this to persuade my climbing partner it wont be too fresh out!
jkfb - on 12 Oct 2013
In reply to jkfb:

Thanks all for the tips. Have decided to head for anti-atlas. Yay.

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