UKC

Thanks to brexit we’re probably spending a fair bit of the winter in Morocco (Tafraoute area and possibly todra?). What’s the best / latest guide; paul and Emma’s? Is it possible to pick this up in town? I’d rather not buy it now and cart it around all winter but if needs be.... anyone got any info? Thanks, George 

hi, I’ve been to Morocco several times. Emma and Paul’s guide is the best and the most up to date. New version is just out. 
Steve Broadbent did produce one but I think it’s out of print. Steve also produced some very handy little pocket guides. Handy on multi pitch routes.

ive never seen any guidebooks in Taffoute. When are you planning to go? I’ve been Jan, Feb and March. March is the best. Good weather and longer days. Can be pretty warm.  Been in November but it was very wet.  Think spring is better.

Have you got accommodation sorted? The guesthouse near Kzar rock is excellent. Pretty basic but everything climbers need. Also very close to a lot of good crags. 
The Kasbah is very good but also very expensive. It’s a 40 minute drive to the centre of the climbing area from the Kasbah. So that’s something to think about. 
lots of climbing and accommodation on the Taffoute side but I think the North side is better.

good luck

Steve Broadbent has produced a second edition 2020 https://www.climb-tafraout.com/moroccan-anti-atlas.php

I'd say the climb tafraoute guide (select) is better laid out, with better maps, area discriptions, and is more useful for getting around and approaching crags etc. It can, however, be quite hyperperbolic in its descriptions of route quality . The Morocco rock guide (more difinitive) has more accurate grading and stars, but I'd say isn't as well laid out etc.

Both of these have had new editions come out recently, so some of the above might have been rectified. 

There's also the separate climb tafraoute granite guide and super select classic routes guide, both of which have some good stuff in.  maybe aren't needed if you've got the others. 

I’m looking for a Christmas/New Year destination. Is this any good for that time or is it best later in the Sprit?

As commented above, we released a new edition of the Climb Tafraout guide in December 2020. The new edition is now pretty much definitive, as we've added loads of new content (more than 500 additional routes from the old edition). The granite chapter has been massively extended to cover all of the good sport and trad, and all of the routes in '100 Classic Climbs' are now included.

Unfortunately the new edition is not yet available in Tafraout, as travel there has been pretty difficult this year. Stock of most maps and guides in Tafraout was getting low before Covid, so I'd definitely recommend getting something before you go.

The climbing season in Tafraout generally runs from October to April. Rain is possible any time, but most common in November and December - even then it rarely spoils a trip. We've done plenty of Christmas & New Year trips and they've been great... don't miss the new year party in Les Amandiers!

Would definitely recommend a trip to Todra as well. There's lots of really good climbing there, from single pitch sport to big full-day bolted adventures. Mind you, I think the Todra guidebook has sold out everywhere...

Thanks. Im not sure who’s guide we will go for. I had Steve’s (2 volumes) in 2011, Paul’s when we went back in 2017. I think I probably preferred paul and Emma’s layout but I’d just go on recommendations. Stars and lots of actual info are what We want , good topos and plenty of detail! we will also be looking for routes mainly e2+ generally speaking. 
 

We’re taking the camper van, likely a ferry from Italy (after some sport climbing on Greece / Turkey), hopefully around late jAnuary? 
 

I was also thinking about getting that cicerone walking guidebook; 40 walk In the anti atlas for a bit of potential exploring.