UKC

/ Morocco, jebel el kest route information

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robgixer - on 29 Dec 2017
Thinking of going to Morocco and just wondered what peoples thoughts were on the place, mainly about the quality of the climbing itself? Cheers
JMarkW - on 29 Dec 2017
In reply to robgixer:

Just done two weeks on the north side of the anti atlas before Christmas.

Great trip. It's an amazing place to climb. Very friendly people, superb setting, surprising amount of birds! We stayed at the kasbah which is a great base. Though cold at night....take your down jacket....

As for the climbing... We did a lot of multi pitch mountain routes. Enjoyable days out. A lot of rambling, some spurious rock, which probably is OK, some great lines. Interspersed with good bits of technical climbing.

It's a bit like gogarth/dolomites in the desert. Also did some days of single pitch. Some good, some rubbish, a few very good, but only a few.

I'd go back in the future but I have been to better trad destinations with respect to the climbing itself.

As whole though, 8/10

Cheers Mark
silverdarling - on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to robgixer:

I'm not a climber but I've enjoyed some superb hiking/scrambling around Jebel el Kest . The area is protected, little overgrazing or hunting so good for wildlife with some beautiful woodland . Low key tourism is well established, Tafraoute is a tourist centre, and locals generally good at understanding tourist oddities. Very few climbers/hikers etc actually in the mountains gives that 'undiscovered' feel. Plenty hiking, cycling, staring at rocks, visits to oasis options outside the mountan areas.

Good maps and info on the area from https://www.climb-tafraout.com
PaulTanton - on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to JMarkW:
I agree Mark. Really good place to climb. I’ve stayed at the Kasbah a couple of times, off back there in March.
I’ve also climbed on the south side. Tafroute is a good base, very cheap, friendly people but I don’t think the climbing is quite as good as the north side. We had a very old guide so I’m sure we missed the best bits on the south side. Steve Broadbent has a guide out to the south side that Im sure will help a lot.

It’s a great place to climb and explore. It’s climbing on mountain crags that get sunshine and are dry. All round winner.


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