In reply to Kemics: Easyjet are doing cheap flights to Agadir at the moment. If heading for the Anti-Atlas area around Tafraoute, we stay at The Kasbah Tizourgane, superb value at £23/night with traditional breakfast+evening meal. Very comfortable and on the doorstep of the climbs on the North Side. If staying in Tafraoute, its an extra 45 minute drive at least, to get to the climbing. There's a huge variety of every type of climbing on the North Side of Jebel el Kest, usually very short walk-ins (but roughly vary between road-side to 1 hour max). I always carry a full rack, up to friend/camalot 4 and a couple of large hexes. Most routes are very well protected but take plenty of slings as the routes can wander a bit and there's loads of spikes for runners. The rock is usually of perfect quality and has weathered into beautiful shapes with good friction, but nevertheless it is a mountain environment so needless to say, helmets are highly recommended.
Steve Broadbent's (2010), guide works quite well and contains 650 routes. The new guide however, Morocco Rock (2012) has cleared up most inaccuracies and contains 1000 routes, which includes all the more recent development as well as the Jebel Taskra range, which contains the fantastic Tizi Escarpment near the Kasbah Tizourgane (its worth having a look at more recent developments here on the website also, as the classic routes keep going up!!).
Even since the publication of Morocco Rock last September there's been about 60 new routes added, and if you want to do any new routes, there's still plenty of scope - details of these can be found on our website, where there's a New Routes Page. You'll find the 6 climbing areas starting with Sidi M'Zal on the left side of the page. This gives detailed info, including topos and some great action shots of recent activity..Greek Buttress (Sidi M'Zal) and Dragon Buttress (Samazar Valley) should not be missed !
http://www.moroccorock.com/