/ Multipitch sport routes within the UK?

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Francescaparratt - on 13 May 2018

Are there any?

emma1987 - on 13 May 2018
In reply to Francescaparratt:

Cheddar has some  

Paz - on 13 May 2018

There are a surprising number of multipitch sport routes in the slate quarries (especially Mathilda), one of which has been claimed as the new longest sport route in the UK, robbing the previous title-holding route at Cheddar of the accolade.  The first ascentionists of both routes really need to get the long tape measures out, do some much more precise length calculations, post pictures on the internet for proof and work out once and for all the answer to the crucial question everyone is asking:  whose penis is biggest?

Probably some routes on the Ormes. 

Also there are girdle traverses.

The Bat on Plum Buttress is one of the best, I'm guessing.

Post edited at 22:34
Paz - on 13 May 2018

There's a brilliant 7a on Go Wall at Wintour's Leap too

Ally Smith on 14 May 2018
In reply to Francescaparratt:

Stone Cold Fever (WW) (6b+)

Castles Made of Sand(WW) (6c)

Note both of these have access restrictions. See

Heil Hitler (7a) - Wintour's Leap

Lot's in Twll Mawr on the slate:

Long in the Twll/The North will Rise Again (6c+)

The Desolation of Smaug! (6c)

Black Hole Sun (7a+) - a personal favourite - great top pitches.

The Rock Bottom Line (7b+) - getting harder

The Quarryman (E8 7a) - needs a couple of wires for the first pitch.



PaulTanton - on 14 May 2018
In reply to Francescaparratt:

just do Trad multi pitch. Much better


Francescaparratt - on 14 May 2018

Thanks for the responses; this has given me great insight in setting some new goals...

•climb harder sport routes outside - all the multi-pitch sport seems to be 6b+ and above.

•get more confident at trad especially anchors - atleast this’ll open up some easy routes within the country.

•go abroad :/

Best, Francesca


Emilio Bachini on 25 May 2018
In reply to Francescaparratt:

Langcliffe Quarry


Havent actually climbed any of the routes there but I’m confident there’s a few multipitch there.


It’s in the new Yorkshire Limestone guide. 

Angry old man - on 26 May 2018
In reply to Francescaparratt:

Two routes in Horseshoe quarry in the peak. Quarry man is a 2 pitch F6a, and the route to its left is F5.

both fit your profile


megamonkeyman on 27 May 2018
In reply to Francescaparratt:

Woodcroft quarry at Wintors Leap has a 5+,3+,4+ 3 pitch one. First pitch to second is more of a link up but still can be done on a hanging belay.

Wyndcliff has a few 2 pitch 5-5+ climbs at the far left of the upper tier. Abseil in.


The Ivanator - on 27 May 2018
In reply to Francescaparratt:

If you fancy a trip North here are a couple of multi starred 2 pitch outings on Scottish conglomerate:

Ithaca (5c)

Double Jointed (5c)

The Woodcroft Quarry link mentioned above is straightforward and worthwhile:

Out of your tree (5c) into Forty Years Apiece (4c)

There is also Sunshine (6a) on the slabs at Anstey's Cove. One of the very best lower grade multi pich offerings I have done in the UK is Don't Jis on my Sofa (6a+), but I believe Barland quarry is now being re-developed and is no longer a viable climbing option.

On the slate 362 (6a) is a straightforward multipitch and there are numerous potential link ups in  Australia. Cheddar multipitch really starts at 6b/+, but good targets there are:

Goats R Us (6b+) and Stone Cold Fever (WW) (6b+) (be aware of the South Side restrictions).

So, if you are prepared to travel the length and breath of the UK there are a few, but it is slim pickings really.

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