UKC

North Wales conditions: misplaced optimism?

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 alex505c 17 May 2021

I’m in Bethesda through Sunday and wondering if the forecast of relatively dry conditions for the next few days means that anything on Dinas Mot, the Cromlech, etc. could come into condition...?! I suppose Cenotaph Corner is too much to hope for, but perhaps Cemetery Gates?

Upon arrival Saturday afternoon I did Striptease at Tremadog and it remained bone dry through the rain. Yesterday I embraced the rain fully with a wet scramble up Clogwyn y Person Arete and across Crib Goch, which was lovely. And today looks very promising at Gogarth. But what I’ve really been yearning to do since my long lockdown in London are the classics up in the Pass...

(Failing that, of course there’s always more sopping wet scrambles. Next on my list would be Idwal Slabs ordinary route to Cneifion Arete.)

 Wil Treasure 17 May 2021
In reply to alex505c:

Most of the routes dry relatively quickly. Some can have wet streaks after rain, but often dry later on. Cenotaph Corner retains a little bit of water, but the Cromlech is south facing, so it will dry out through the day. Cemetery Gates will be fine.

Ive always found Dinas Mot to be fairly damp free on the central faces. The surrounding parts can retain more water, but I'd be surprised if you didn't find dry routes there.

Post edited at 09:58
 CantClimbTom 17 May 2021
In reply to alex505c:

My first ever lead was the first pitch of ordinary route in a cloudburst, the crack was foaming and water streamed down my sleeves into arm pits whenever I gripped a hold above me. Will be 29 years ago this Aug. So it has a warm (but very damp) place in my heart. As fondly as I remember it, you can do a lot better that ordinary route in the rain. It's very polished and fairly unremarkable. I'd bypass the slabs when wet, walk up to Cneifion Arete and compensate by doing something afterwards. Just a thought...

https://www.ukscrambles.com/wales-scrambles/dolmen-ridge/

"...Dolmen Ridge is described in Garry Smith’s guidebook as a Tolkien-esque adventure and is a contender for the best Grade 3 outing in the Ogwen Valley. Like other routes on the Main Cliff of Glyder Fach, it is excellent as part of an enchainment starting with a route from Cwm Idwal followed by the Cneifion Arete. After a route on the Main Cliff, descend via Bristly Ridge and you can get in a bonus route on the East Face of Tryfan if the weather and light hold!" 

In reply to alex505c:

Just looked at the forecast..... Erm..... I hope you get a window to do what you want, I really do, but you might want to have a flick through the gogarth guides when you get a minute.

 robert-hutton 17 May 2021
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

I am over in Harlech and great, sunny dry conditions and looking over to hollyhead it's cloud free as it was yesterday.

 ianstevens 17 May 2021
In reply to alex505c:

Gogarth is better than the pass anyway  

1
 Wil Treasure 17 May 2021
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

For the weekend maybe, for the next 3 days both Llanberis and Holyhead have a decent forecast.

OP alex505c 23 May 2021
In reply to CantClimbTom:

Thanks for recommending Dolmen — did it yesterday and absolutely loved it.


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