UKC

/ Northumberland - suggestions

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TN - on 07 Jun 2004

Hoping to get up to Northumberland for a few days.
I only climb up to about Severe - can anyone suggest any nice friendly venues we might try out?

I know NOTHING about the area - had a quick look on the database, but recommendations would be more useful to me until I can get to a guidebook.....

(Also good campsite recommendations would be welcomed too! Perhaps in the Bamburgh area...)

Thanks, in advance.

T
Paul Saunders on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to TN:

Now history, but there's some info here...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=84750&v=1#1137478
TN - on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to Paul Saunders:

Well linked - thanks. I'd forgotten about this (or perhaps I had just wiped it from my memory!)

I will read and absorb.

T
JDal - on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to TN:
THE best place for Severes in Northumberland is Crag Lough, and, despite a couple of postings to the contrary here*, you should be OK on everything up to and including the brilliant Main Wall, which is 99% of the crag anyway. Peel Crag, which you pass on the walk in to Crag Lough, has 2 excellent severes also.
Camping at:
Winshields Camp Site
Winshields Farm
Tel. 01434 344243.
(Walking distance to the pub/crag)

* Information from NT Warden via BMC Access Rep. Do not go any further east than Main Wall and you should be ok. If the Peregrines get alarmed you'll know about it and just back off to the west a bit. They should be just about fledged by now.
http://www.thenmc.org.uk/pages/guide/index.htm and click on Access in the sidebar menu for gory details.
JDal - on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to JDal:
Sorry, that'll read very strange if you aren't aware that there's a bird ban in place at Crag Lough!
lummox - on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to TN: there should be enough to keep ypu amused at Bowden and Back Bowden- including the fab Russet Groove (Diff) Castle Crack (VDiff)and the overhanging V Diff at Back Bowden which is brill...
Alan Stark - on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to TN:

If you dont mind the walk in, Simonside, near Rothbury has some excellent routes in the lower grades.

Corby's Crag off the Alnwick - Rothbury road also is worth a visit.

Further west, The Wanneys offer some excellent traditional v-diffs and severes.

All crags are excellent examples of Northumberland sandstone (although for the hardest routes, Bowden Doors and Kyloe are the best known locations.)

Go and enjoy !

Muz on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to Alan Stark:

(it's TN again, by the way.Sorry)
Ah, sandstone...
Do the same 'ethics' apply as for southern sandstone then - ie: long anchored top-ropes or soloing only?
(I don't get out much.....)
graeme alderson on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to Muz: Oi its not southern sandstone - ethic in Northumberland always used to be leading or soloing. Presume it hasn't changed much.
Muz on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to graeme alderson:

That's why I asked - I don't know. I'm a grit-girl!

TN
Sarah G on 07 Jun 2004
In reply to TN:
Kyloe out is sound, plenty to go at there. Lovely venue, too.

You'll love the Saint's Wall climbs.

Sxx
Adders - on 08 Jun 2004
In reply to TN: go to bowden doors its great! ( went to last picnic ) ps. if space in car 'can i come!' :P
helen taylor - on 08 Jun 2004
In reply to TN: Kyloe Crag. Two routes I'd recommend are Flake Crack (S) and Christmas Tree Arete (D).
I wouldn't recommend the campsite we were at in Wooler. You shouldn't have the problems queueing for the toliets, queueing for the sinks, queueing for showers... because it shouldn't be so busy as it was on the bank holiday, but I found the staff/owner to be somewhat lacking when it came to customer relations. That's putting it kindly.
ericoides - on 08 Jun 2004
In reply to helen taylor:

if it's good weather and you want nice views, you can't beat Simonside.
goodwin912 on 08 Jun 2004
I'd recomend Bowden doors, i did my first lead there (grovel groove (sp)). although kyloe and corby's are still great. simonside's not the best of crags, was rarther green and slimey the other week, should be ok if its been climbed alot recently though (if you dont mind a long hike)

cheers,
Richy
gourd on 09 Jun 2004
In reply to TN: There's a good bunkhouse just north of Seahouses. Phone the tourist office for the number.

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