UKC

Hi, anyone know

1. The state of fixed gear on the stack side of tyrolean?

2. If the answer to the above is, poor, then is it easy to set up a solid belay using just wires to a max of size 14?

The reason for asking is that our volunteer for the swim isn't as experienced on the climbing side. So whatever she sets has to be relatively simple. The alternative would be for me to do the swim and I'm guessing the water isn't warm at this time of year, so that would be a very bad solution.

Thanks 

Can't help as it's a long time since we did it but it's a fantastic adventure. Enjoy the day whatever happens.

It was ok 3 weeks ago - quite an assortment of tat, but one big in-situ crab in the middle that should be pretty obvious.

We arrived to find there was also quite a lot of tat on the landward side which I cut away and removed as litter!

Thanks. Perfect! I owe you some beers 

Anyone know the answer to the same question for Am Buachaille? Thanks 

You can't set up a Tyrolean for Am Buachaille. You've got to do the swim really. It's about 15m and I'd recommend a wetsuit.

Just do the swim, you want good anchors with 100% confidence as Tyroleans put high loads on them, the fact your asking the question indicates that you don't have this faith in the person you're with. 

Did it in April on a cold day. You get over it, and you need to be prepared to get wet as if the tide is high then a large portion of your Tyrolean may be submerged on your return. Do it naked and take a towel and a few clothes in your safety dry bag and you'll be dry as a bone in a few seconds.

Yes, it's all part of what makes it a bit different. Last time I did it all three of us swam both ways. All a good laugh and less faff than a Tyrolean. Better rehearsal for the far more intimidating Am Buachaille too

You have to admit the Tyrolean makes it a bit different as well! 

I did the swim, rigged the Tyrolean then swam back, got dry and swung across. The climb, the ab, the possibility of the return Tyrolean dunking you in the rising sea and the whole palaver makes it a magical day out. Especially in a threesome with good mates.

Fabulous memories from 2018. 

Just to report back.

Didn't do Am Buachaille as the thought of the swim for Josh and me without a wetsuit was too much!

Did do Stoer. We threw Flo in the water with a swimming costume on. Sea was okay but not flat. The far side belay was all in place with an obvious powerpoint of two lockers for her to clip an alpine butterfly in the mid point of the rope (old 8.5mm dynamic). I tensioned both strands of the rope using a micro trax on each strand to the power point my side. This was formed of a small blue DB C4 cam, the only piece under tension, backed up by 2 bomber wires. The use of two strands ensured much less sag. 

The descent ab dumps one right on the stack-side belay. Two of us went back over the fixed lines. The third clipped himself to the alpine butterfly, took in all the slack in the rap lines and we hauled him across with him still hanging from the rap lines. This seemed an ideal way of doing it

The idea of the swimmer swimming back to get dry would be a good one in calm seas. Flo was worried about being swept out without a safety line.

The route was excellent. Very solid rock. Not really possible in two pitches due to drag. Sun setting on the summit.

Did Hoy the day before - even better. Then Agag's in Glen Coe the next day; then the classic and hard rock ticks on Arran the following day. 

Great trip. Thanks for your help.