UKC

Hi,

We're driving to Locana in the Orco valley in a couple of weeks and looking for some advice on crag choice. My partner hasn't climbed in a while so we're looking for single pitch sports climbing in the 5's, but with some 6's for me (6c ish would be great). Any stand out crags for that range? I've had a look on here and noted a some, but a bit of local knowledge would be appreciated. We'll have a dog with us so somewhere with a flat base would be great.

Cheers,

Paul

There's a very good archived reply on this in ukc from November 2009.

I was in the Gran Paradiso last September and I seem to remember that dogs are now banned from the National Park. 

Check before you go. Just so you know the Rangers have the power of arrest and can issue on the spot fines. This is the polizia forestali. 

Great place for crack climbing; wouldn't bother with the place as a sport climbing venue though.

The Giro d'Italia finishes in the valley on 24/5 so there will be closed roads but it sounds like you'll be after that?

Thanks for the replies so far.the

Appreciate the dog warning. We were unaware, didn't even occur to me to check! Appears there's a couple of areas we can take him, and obviously outside the park itself we're fine.

As for sports climbing. The trip wasn't intended as a climbing trip, but since we're driving it'd be rude not to take the gear. Unfortunately my other half doesn't want to do trad so stuck with sport.

We don't arrive until the 28th so the Giro should be well gone by then.

I'd second Gary's comment. It's a beautiful place and there are some sport climbs there but the trad is the main event.

Ok, I get it  Trad gear will also go in!

​​​​​​Have ordered the guide for the valley so hopefully I'll find enough sport to keep the Mrs happy.

If you really want sport and dog friendly. The Aosta Valley might be better. Mani Nude is the guide. Having said that I've not been to Orca. 

Given your name I fully expect you to disagree but...

I was slightly underwhelmed by the sport climbing in and around the Aosta valley. It was great to pass the time when the mountains were out or as part of a multi activity trip but I probably wouldn't recommend it as a destination in itself. Might suit the OP though given their requirements.

Droide is a popular (maybe too popular) fully bolted crag. Good, steepish routes in the 6s. Probably some 5s as well. Could be busy if it's the weekend.

Pietro Filosofale is in a nice location and has a mix of grades, including some easier ones. Got a feeling it's shady, so you might want to check that if it's chilly.

There is some sport lower down the valley (Bosco), but I haven't been.