UKC

Were going to be staying near Simpson Cross in Pembroke and I've only every climbed the southern side in the ranges before (St Govan's etc) and this was over 15 years ago so beer has made me forget everything that far back!!

After some recommendations suitable for taking the kids, preferably without abseil entries. Looking to enjoy the climbing rather than push anything so easier grades please.

Any suggestions welcome

Hi Phil, depending on your children's age and climbing ability, try the crags around St Davids, it is where I took my children when they were young 

I tended to lower them (easier to manage) from the top and then they climbed out

I would recommend Porthclaise (routes and bouldering) and Porth-y-Ffynnon West (the crack)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/porthclais_area-67

Rob

Thank you. Kids are 11 and 13 and have been climbing since they were 5, just for fun though. Always gone places with them that they can start at the bottom so never had to think before.

Will take a look.

Phil

Allthough I cant comment on a child perspective but I have given non absail crags in pembroke some thought as I mainly climb with my wife who doesn't climb much beyond vs and isnt one for big commitment.

My conclusion is Pembroke is pretty rubbish for this unfortunately. You are limited to a stennis head, possibly saddle head allthough the scramble is a bit of a faff, chapple head (if not banned) but unless your children are happy at steep E1 minimum not a great choice and possibly crystal slabs (allthough it's been a while so cant quite remember the approach). 

If you are in n pembroke you can scramble down to the sw facing crags on St David's head which are good. Also tonnes of superfun 'coastering'on this stretch of the coastline.

I'm a selfish arse though and am mainly focused on routes I want to do, there may be good lower grade options I have missed.

Hi Phil, so 11 and 13 is a bit too big for lowering, so what I did with mine at that age was to set up an ab, have them on a safety rope as they ab in, they disconnect from the ab rope at the bottom remaining tied into the safety rope which is now the top rope, they then move to the selected route which is within metres (there is a ledge on both crags but can be tidal)

You are directly above so top rope them out. That way they always have a rope on, they can see you and you can talk them up and no need to commit all of you to the bottom of the crag. If necessary you can set up another belay at the top slightly further along the crag (I'm talking metres), so use one belay at the ab and when they are safely down you move to the other belay so you are directly above them 

This method works for the crags I mentioned in my previous post and I've used it on a number of occasions

The only issue is that you don't get to climb!

Rob

Just remembered you can scramble down to this crag and organ pipes west, which should suit the bill

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/st_nons_bay-21859#organ_pipes_east

Rob

My kids are a bit younger so last year I took them inland to Treffgarne. Which they did enjoy for a bit of non seacliff scrambly climbing + bouldering action. Also I hear rumours of Plumstone Mountain which is in the same area- also inland. Both feature in the Pembroke North CC guide.

I felt I would have needed longer to explore and suss out some good routes. Something impatient children do not always allow.  

Thanks so much for your help - selfish enough not to want to miss out on my own climbing so will consider all your advice.

They look interesting - brain automatically thinks of Pembroke and sea cliffs - didn't even consider inland... d'oh!!

We took ours down to Saddle Head when they were younger than yours.  We had them on short ropes for the scramble down, but you can judge for yourself whether yours need that precaution.  The scramble is easy and not too polished, but very exposed in places.

If they climb VS or above, it may also be worth the scramble down to Stennis Head.  Though the scramble is short (and used to be straightforward) it is very polished, so you may want to spot them from the bottom.

Thanks for your comments - agree, want some climbing myself....

St Davids Head proper is a great place. One or two excellent Diffs/ Severes accessible by a mild down wards scramble but the situation leaves you in no doubt that you are on a sea cliff. Bit of a hike from Whitesands, though.

Depending how old the kids are, the upper tier at Newton head is a very good little area with flat base, but its not that far from a cliff top if that's of concern.

Climb anywhere at something like Diff to HS.