/ Pfalz beta
Going to Alsace for a wedding in April and figured I might as well go and have a look just beyond the border and climb on the local sandstone. I realize there's a new comprehensive guidebook, which I will most definitely buy, but seeing as the place seems quite large I'm after some recommendations and advice.
I'm interested in the trad climbing, single-pitch only, my better half is happy to belay me now and again but she won't get dragged up summits As for grades I don't know, up to 6b/c (top)? (E2/3??) I have a soft spot for cracks. I'll have an 80m rope.
Where would you base yourself? The area seems rather confusing with lots of small-ish crags. Ideally the closest to the French border the better, so maybe around Dahn?
Any recommendations on accommodation (probably not camping), things to see, museums, etc also welcome!
Not having a second makes the logistics quite a bit harder in some (most) routes, because the rappel stations can be on the other side of the towers.
Dahn is good.
Other things to do: go to a Weinhof (https://www.pfalz-info.com/die-deutsche-weinstrasse/) and try the wine... Bad Bergzabern is a nice small town, also Trifels.
For cracks you are in the right place. Good ones are:
Jubileumsriss (Nonnenfels) (rappel over route possible)
Grosse und Kleine Suedwandriss (Pferdfechtfelsen) (don't remember the descends)
Goetterverschneidung (Fladensteine) (rappel over route possible)
Grosse und Direkter Suedriss (Fladensteine) (rappel over route possible)
Grosse Suedverschneidung (Backelstein) (don't remember the descend)
Schnappsweg und Falkendach (B. Geierstein) (rappel over route possible)
Lots at Hochstein and Asselstein (don't remember the descends)
If those are too easy, try Rote Wand at Backelstein
Easy and fun:
Braut und Brauetigum
Byzantinerweg (Hundsfels) (definately needs a second, but only III)
Check the actual bird bans. http://www.pfaelzer-kletterer.de/sub_tourendb/pfalztour/felssperrung/sperrlistePfalz.php
Thank you for the heads-up about not all routes being directly rappable. I'm not planning on climbing a lot so hopefully I should be able to find 15-20 routes where the rap station isn't out of the way of the route?
Thank you also for the website with the bird bans, that's helpful. Any idea which birds are those bans meant to protect? I'm guessing peregrines and eagle-owls?
And thanks for the suggestions!
This week's Friday Night Video is an extra from the new film from Dark Sky Media: Undiscovered. The film explores Dave's obsession with exploration and climbing new routes in some of Scotland's most remote and scenic corners. This outtake...