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Portland Climbing anchors

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Hi guys, what does portland anchor bolts look like?

1. I heard it's U staple. Is it wide enough to contain two quickdraws for anchor, another two quickdraws to fix my body, then thread the rope?

2. Is it only enough to thread one rope or two ropes?

3. I heard there are also ram-horns. It's even easier to use that I just clip them on and lower off?

In reply to Michael7825:

Typically two bolts, linked with a chain, and a big O ring to attach everything to and thread through for lower off. 

There are some rams horns on newer routes, like in Lost Valley, but they're kinda rare (although great!)..

 Kevster 13 May 2022
In reply to Michael7825:

Been a few years, but most were 2 staples. 

Normally big enough for a krab and the rope.  Not multiple krabs. 

Maybe teaching you to suck eggs... 

If you clip one with a draw and the lead rope, and the other use to clip in yourself as safe with a sling or whatever you wish to use.

then pull a bight of rope, re tie to harness. Then undo and thread the end of the rope. Tie back in and take the rest apart. Making sure belayer takes the slack.....

assuming you're on belay at all times then the worst you'll get in case of a failure is a lead fall onto the previous bolt. 

this saves having lots of gear in the staples. 

I should also mention good practice is not to top rope off the fixed gear but use your own krab to stop wearing the fixed out prematurely. 

If your top roper is worried about threading at the end, then they can back clip the last draw which then offers the leader protection mentioned above. 

It's easier to lead imo. 


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