/ Recommend me a low grade classic in the lakes

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derryclimbs 12 Jan 2020

Very probably heading North for a hit and run long weekend to tick a classic or two. Never been before but has long been on the destination ticklist since getting the lake district rock guidebook by chance a few years back. 

Remit is up to HS, multipitch over 100m(ish), great position/views, and to be able to walk/scramble to a summit, or even top out there. Long approaches are welcome too. 

Mid May is the plan. 

Cheers in advance.

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Mike-W-99 12 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

Here you go, long approach and I suspect guaranteed solitude.Traverse pitch is great but no summit however you could get to Scafell afterwards.

Bridge's Route (HS 4b)

Or Tophet Wall (HS 4b) and carry on up.

Post edited at 22:20
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Andrew Lodge 12 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

Agree with Tophet wall, makes for a great day out.

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olddirtydoggy 12 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

There's much on Gimmer crag in the Langdales and a great pub to finish on.

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pasbury 12 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

One of those old school routes on Scafell Crag might fit the Bill. If it’s been a dry spring.

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Darron 12 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

A route on Pillar?

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Martin Bennett 13 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

Any of the above or maybe Bowfell via Bowfell Buttress or Glaramara via Raven Crag Buttress ( of the many Raven Crags that's the one in Combe Ghyll, Borrowdale). Not so grand as Scafell or Pillar maybe but have their moments.

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derryclimbs 13 Jan 2020
In reply to Mike-W-99:

Was certainly looking at Tophet Wall with the description of it being the best of its grade in the country making it very appealing. But could sacrifice a bit of quality for quantity if there is anything longer out there for more time on the actual rock. 

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Mark Eddy 13 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

For quality and quantity, sticking with Gable. Needle Ridge followed by Tophet Wall. Then over the scree to Westmorland crag to tick a route to Great Gable summit. Pinnacle Ridge is a good one, although more of a scramble. And for starters you could include Napes Needle, it's a bit polished and a bit short, but the position is pretty spectacular.

Dow crag is worth a mention too. Arete, Chimney and Crack on 'A' Buttress. If wanting more mileage start with Murray's Route on 'B' Buttress as the descent rake brings you out at the base of 'A'. And Arete, Chimney, and Crack will more or less take you to Dow summit, fab views of the Scafell range from up there. 

Enjoy, the Lakes is a fantastic place to climb. 

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Pursued by a bear 13 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

If approaching from Borrowdale, tick a route at  Kern Knotts on your way in to do Tophet Wall and walk out over the summit of Great Gable and back along the ridge.  Makes for a terrific day out.

Alternatively, but in a similar vein, go to  Dow Crag and tick a couple of the lower grade classics - Arête, Chimney and Crack (Summer) (S 3c) or Gordon and Craig's Route (S 3c) (Murray's Route (S 4a) is the Classic Rock tick, but the key moves on the first pitch are very polished) and then do one of the classic diffs - 'C' Ordinary Route (Summer) (D) or Giant's Crawl (Summer) (D) carrying rucksacks and then walk off over the summit of Dow Crag and Coniston Old Man for another top day.

T.

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C Witter 13 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

The 'main' climbing valleys for that grade range are Langdale, Borrowdale and Wasdale, with the National Trust campsites in Langdale and Wasdale and the Rosthwaite Chapel Head campsites as bases, complete with pubs!

Presuming you have a car, you could have a great time doing one day in Borrowdale (Troutdale Pinnacle, Sev, maybe another route on a nearby crag) and one day on Grey Crag, Buttermere, (linking Harrow Buttress, Fortiter and Oxford and Cambridge Direct) - followed by a swim and an ice cream of it's hot!

Langdale is better if you're on public transport, as you can walk everywhere. Asterisk (MVS/HS 4b) followed by D route (sev) is a good combo on Gimmer. Then ab back down for another route or drop in to another crag (Pavey or Raven) on your return to the pub. Bowfell Butress is a fantastic, easy classic at the top of a hill; White Ghyll is brilliant if you're willing to stretch up to VS; Kettle Crag is an esoteric gem in hot weather, as it can be shady; Long Scar is a great single-pitch venue if that becomes desirable, e.g due to an anxious team or a desire for a more relaxed day.

Wasdale: hit the Napes, as others have suggested!

Enjoy! Cumbria has the best "classic climbs" in England.

Post edited at 11:08
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derryclimbs 13 Jan 2020
In reply to C Witter:

All sounds great. Thanks everyone. Looking forward to thumb through the guide tonight and piece some of these enchainments together!

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krikoman 13 Jan 2020
In reply to derryclimbs:

 Dow Crag a - Arête, Chimney and Crack (Summer) (S 3c) one of my favourite all time route, along with the previously mentioned Tophet Wall. More dramatic positions on Dow though.

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