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Recommendations for sport climbing in avon gorge

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 Peter Borg 06 May 2019

I've been looking through guide books for Avon and they all seem to mention trad climbs only. 

Where are the good sports climbs and which guides are good for them? 

 GridNorth 06 May 2019
In reply to Peter Borg:

Bushmen Don't Surf, both options are very good, as is No Crag for Old Men.  Stammelheim is also worth doing. I found a lot of the routes to the left to be very unpleasantly polished and that was many years ago so I hate to think what they are like now.

Al

 UKC Forums 06 May 2019
This thread was started in the ROCKFAX forum and has now been moved.
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 Bobling 06 May 2019
In reply to Peter Borg:

There's sport on the south side of the Gorge in  Leigh Woods, never climbed any of it though so no idea how good it is!

 Donotello 07 May 2019
In reply to Peter Borg:

There are 2 sport quarries in the gorge almost opposite each other. 

The road side is called New Quarry and is in the first half of the current Martin Crocker Avon Gorge book. There’s nothing really easy here it’s pretty much relatively long 6a and 6bs and up. 

On the Leigh Woods side you have The Shooting Range or ‘Quarry 3’ as the more boring folk seem to call it. Takes some thought and common sense to enter but it can be a lovely tranquil spot with some smaller climbs of around 6a and up, again only one climb in the 5’s. This wall is in the second / Leigh Woods half of the current Avon gorge guidebook. 

 GDes 07 May 2019

Going sport climbing in the Avon gorge would be like going to the North Shore of Hawaii to build sandcastles.


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