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Recommended climbing routes @ Alicante

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 Anthony CHC 30 Oct 2019

Hi all,

I will be going to Alicante in November for some sport climbing! exciting times!

I am hoping some of you have been before and maybe have some route recommendation or some advice while hanging out there!

We climb around 6c/7a-ish grade if thats needed

looking forward to the responses! 


 Mark Eddy 30 Oct 2019
In reply to Anthony CHC:

Have you got a copy of the Rockfax or Levante guidebooks?

Cabezon d'Oro has loads to go at. As does Forada. Then there's Sella.

A little inland there's Alcoy and Cocentaina, both have loads of climbing with plenty of development in recent years.

At that time of year midweek will be fairly quiet at most crags, and weekends quite busy at the easy access venues.

 Anthony CHC 01 Nov 2019
In reply to Mark Eddy:

Hi Eddy,

I do have the Rockfax book and have been looking through it, thanks for the information.

do you have any recommendations on things to do in Benidorm or Alicante? 

 Mark Eddy 01 Nov 2019
In reply to Anthony CHC:

Sierra Helada is pretty handy if in Benidorm

 C Witter 01 Nov 2019
In reply to Mark Eddy:

Serra Helada (Serra Gelada) is really impressive! But, my impression was that anyone visiting in the expectation of finding "sport climbing" would be in for a bit of a shock! Isn't it mostly trad? Or are there lots of fully bolted climbs there too?

Topo for Serra Gelada is here, under "Premium Topos": http://www.compasswest.co.uk/topos/

 OliverR17 02 Nov 2019
In reply to C Witter:

There's a lot of everything there! There are plenty of lovely well bolted single pitch routes, as well as some relatively serious mountaineering routes. Last time I was out there we just did the former, however we're heading out again soon for some larger and more sparsely bolted stuff. It has the full range of options if you know where to look.

 ian caton 03 Nov 2019
In reply to Anthony CHC:

The Rockfax isn't bad. Read it, you will find what you want to know. 

Just a tip 😊

 C Witter 06 Nov 2019
In reply to OliverR17:

I've only done one route there, but it was a cracker: A Dream in the Making (HVS 5a) - top class HVS, with a brilliantly exposed main pitch and a bizarre final pitch through "the Hobbit hole". Would definitely be keen to go back.

 lithos 04 Dec 2019
In reply to C Witter:

Hi,  what's the gear like on this cliff as it says its sandstone im guessng friends not so useful as wires and more traditional rack ?


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