UKC

Right Angle.

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 Mike Conlon 20 Sep 2018

I have probably climbed the route half a dozen times. The first few were pleasant summer shorts and t-shirt affairs. The last 3 efforts over recent years have been totally different propositions. Twice I have literally fallen down the descent pitch as first man down. This year I only just stayed in touch with the last 15ft or so of the chimney adjacent the belay ledge. The stuck and abandoned gear down there suggests others have had their private epics. My query is, has there been some change to the pitch, significantly increasing the difficulty ? An expert friend believes so and another low E climbing partner from the last attempt who thought it desperate, made the observation that the video of the 50th Anniversary mass climb, showed everyone doing the VS traverse avoiding the downclimb. I should add that conditions were very favourable for our last effort.

 BALD EAGLE 20 Sep 2018
In reply to Mike Conlon:

> An expert friend believes so and another low E climbing partner from the last attempt who thought it desperate, made the observation that the video of the 50th Anniversary mass climb, showed everyone doing the VS traverse avoiding the downclimb. I should add that conditions were very favourable for our last effort.

Hi nocker

I filmed the 50th anniversary for Sir Iain of the Peters a couple of years ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQxp2UzCebQ&t=12s

Your climbing partner is correct in that we all used the higher VS traverse line rather than the downclimb. However this variation was purely chosen as we wanted to try and get 50 people across on the same day and this would not be possible using the lower original line of the 2nd pitch for the obvious reasons!
I have no idea if the original 2nd pitch has had a rockfall or changed in any way but no doubt someone will be along soon to confirnm or deny this!  Cheers Dave 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OP Mike Conlon 20 Sep 2018
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Thanks.


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