/ Riglos

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southernclimber - on 28 Mar 2013
I'm off to Riglos in early May and want to get some feedback from anyone who may have climbed in this area before. For example:

Twin ropes or a single?

Decent - are they via ab or walk off?

Best topo/guidebook for the area?

Best options for accommodation?

Any other advice/tips for this area would be much appreciated. The main objective is to climb Fiesta de los Biceps so any feedback I can get for this route would also be great

Thank you.

Carless - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to southernclimber:

Can't really be that helpful as the only route I've done there is Fiesta

Had a 70m single for it and it's a walk-off
Looks like some of the other routes must be ab off eg. Pison

We had the local topo which is good

Didn't stay in the village - was a long day hit from Pau

Fiesta is excellent fun - you can easily run 1st 2 pitches together (observation rather then recommendation)
Crux for me was 1st 7a pitch
For the rest, if you've not got a large potato in your hand, there's one coming soon. Just follow the chalk & keep pulling
southernclimber - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Carless: Thanks very much for the info, I have a single 70m rope so will use that, plus I'll get the local topo when I arrive, thanks again for the help, very much appreciated
paget - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to southernclimber: not to undermine the above response but We did Zulu and the other classics, but seem to remember a big ab off the the back using two 60 metre ropes together after walking down a rain gulley.
It also allowed us to link pitches together and made the climbing way quicker. It's an awesome place, enjoy!
highclimber - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to southernclimber: We were told by the spanish guys we met that 'if you clip the last bolt, you will fall!'. Unfortunately due to a sprained wrist we didn't get to do Fiesta but I could see why you would!

We had 60m doubles and walked off the top of moskitos. took about an hour down.

We didn't bother with a guidebook and relied on chalked holds to lead the way.

We wild camped at the bottom of the road up to the town in some hay bales a farmer had left.

Wild camping is a good possibility if you don't want to spend a lot of money.
Ian Parsons - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to southernclimber:

Just checked my photos. We did three routes at Riglos, all with a single 60m: Zulu; a 4/5 pitch route on the slender buttress immediately right of El Pison; and Moskovkaya, a 3-pitch route to a terrace immediately right again. The latter two involved abseil descents, so must have been 30m maximum (provided you don't miss anything). I seem to recall that the most direct descent from Zulu involved the abseil mentioned previously, but a slightly longer version didn't; unless my memory has completely deserted me we didn't abseil.

Make sure you're fit, or get a few routes in before you go on Fiesta!

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