UKC

Greetings,

Glory days are over but in our 60's and we are still hitting it...well with a stick clip most the time.

Looking to head to Riglos. I do not have the book. We are going in Oct. Do you think there are enough routes 5b-6b for us old people to climb for 11 days?  Are they easy to get to?  Wife's knees are not the best.

Thanks

Mike

We were there a few years back in June- it was insanely hot- and found plenty at the lower grades for a few days. There are a lot of single pitch climbs at the base of the towers which are well worth doing. We tried one of the longer climbs but when the sun hit us retreat was essential!   Also, not to be missed, is the walk around the back of the towers, spectacular in all respects.

Not sure there would be enough to keep you engaged just at Riglos for 11 days if you are only after easy access single pitch clip-ups.

Been a while since I was there though (been three times, twice climbing)

Its a great place to visit, beautiful. Not sure how much to go at in the lower grades, probably slightly restricted but at 6b there are certainly good routes, although going through the classic bulges which normally form the cruxes can feel tough at the grade especially if in the sun. I'm sure the odd piece of aid pulling on a quick draw etc would drop these sections though. I also pretty much just did multipitch so not sure on the single pitch options although I know there are some.

The approaches are generally short, walking steeply out of the town to the base of the towers, however if you do any multipitch that top out it is a longer walk down with steeper sections. The normal route on El Puro (6b) is an abseil descent as is chooper (only goes half way up at 6b then continues as chooperior) so there are probably other options that would be the same and minimize the need for walking.

You can easily have a look at guidebooks in the refuge as well as get decent food and a beer/vino.  

Well worth a visit and not like there is a shortage of other places in Spain to visit if after a few days you want a change.

If you're looking for single pitch bolted routes that you can use a clip stick on, then Riglos might not be so suitable, as there's probably only a day or two of single pitch routes there.  Most of the routes at Riglos are quite accessible.

Rodellar would be more suitable, but the routes below 6b are quite polished. Another area worth considering is Morata de Jalón, which is slightly further south and is quite extensive.  Chodes (Morata de Jalón)

I lived half an hour away in Huesca for five years and climbed lots of Riglos routes at around 5+/6a+ including a few which had 6b bulges which could be French-freed! The routes on the big faces are not necessarily technically hard but they are very serious compared to most modern sport climbs. The bolts are spaced, the fixed gear often very antiquated, the exposure awesome,  some of the rock variable in quality or polished on the cruxes and descents can be complicated.  It can also be very hot even in the shoulder season and the routes are long. To see if you like the style you want to begin on the smaller towers to the right. The easier routes on the Aguja Roja and Mallo Colorado are a good intro to the rock type and will give you an idea of whether you are comfortable enough to progress to the main faces. Start with the Normal and the Edil routes on Aguja Roja and the West Classic on the Mallo Cored. All splendid 4+/5 routes on good rock. Sonia and Villarig on the Aguja are also splendid though at the harder end of 6a.Then move on to the excellent 5+/6a routes along the base of Mallo Colorado - Los Kilos Sienten Bien, Carla, Anorexia, Ultravox and Victor Garcia are all good and the grades felt friendlier to me there than on the main crag. That should fill at least three or days of your holiday and give you an idea of whether you fancy moving on to the biggies. If not, the suggestion of Morata de Jalon is splendid. A superb conventional sport crag offering high quality without fear in a lovely tranquil spot - and there is a refuge to stay in too. If you are up for bigger challenge, everyone starts with the Adamello on the Pison which is thus very busy and a bit polished but a fine and reasonably protected 6a route nonetheless. There are a number of single pitches along the base of the crag some of which are around 5+/6a which are pleasant enough but feel very much like fillers with the huge towers looming above. However to get on to good routes on them you either need to climb 6b bulges comfortably or pick the routes which are given with A0 options. A bit of sly pulling will get you up Galletas on the Fire, Pany Haus and the Puro on the Pison. The Pany Haus is a bit of a fun grovel in chimneys for those who enjoy that kind of thing: the other two are among the best rock climbs I have ever done in my life. Just a little bit harder is the famous Mosquitos which is even better, but the 6b bulge is much harder to aid and the 6a/+ pitches are quite challenging. If you are happy at this sort of grade I can recommend strongly Chooper 6b and Yuma 6a+ on the wall left of the Adamello. Further along on El Frechin Currucuclillo 6a+ and Sanz 6a+ are superb as is the nearby Espolon Arrabal 6c (or 6a+/A0 for me).  All these latter routes have been re-equipped in modern times are have safer fixed gear than the older classics - though still generously spaced! Eleven days on Riglos alone might be just a bit much of a good thing but there are other crags around and any amount of lovely walking. Its a great place. I hope you have a fine trip whatever you do. At the least you have evoked some lovely memories for me! , Best wishes, Alf

Can't old people just go somewhere else and leeve the nice spots for the young to enjoy in piece!

dislikers, I am in my mid 60s!

No, we will just enjoy them while you lot are at work.

Still can't spell though.....

I haven't read through all the responses so I may repeating what has bean said already.

From my one time visit I would say there are sufficient routes there for the "lower grade" or Mid grade climber. There are three or four classic and popular long bolted routes on the main towers up to 6b (though note they can be polished. And Moskitos is polished to hell and bloody hard). The smaller towers (think, Cinque Torre in the Dolomites - 100m or so) have some moderate clip ups.

Climbs have a 5 minute walk in. Though some have a long (but incredible) walk off. Abseiling is neccessary on most.

Also there is Pena Rueba only 20 minutes away. Here there are buckets of multi-pitch pebble pulling often below 6a+. Pena Rueba is less steep than Riglos and feels more friendly. That said, often the climbing can feel generic and even a bit tedious. Still we rated it. Mind you, there is a bit of a walk in and a slog down /via ferrata (recommend abseiling the line depending on route).

Brilliant venue.