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Rock climbing in Corsica

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 Kicki 11 May 2022

I’m planning to climb in Corsica this summer. We are looking for sport crags and multi-pitch routes.

Which guidebook could you suggest to me?

Thank you in advance.

 ablackett 11 May 2022
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I think I have a copy of the sport routes book, pretty much new condition, £25 posted if you want it?

 subtle 11 May 2022
In reply to Kicki:

Just a warning - it can get feckin hot in Corsica in the summer, great for swimming in the rivers but not so good for grunting up multi pitch stuff

An awesome place to go though, go enjoy, I mainly went walking when there but did visit a few climbing places for a looksee 

In reply to subtle:

> Just a warning - it can get feckin hot in Corsica in the summer, great for swimming in the rivers but not so good for grunting up multi pitch stuff

I agree.  It would be lovely about now, the wild flowers are outstanding, but there can still be quite a lot of snow on the tops.

 ablackett 12 May 2022
In reply to Kicki:

Sorry, change of plan, I'm not selling the book.

 Olivier S 12 May 2022
In reply to Kicki:

Hi Kicki  

I live (and climb 😉) in Corsica and I’m a good friend of the authors of the guidebooks to Corsica: Thierry and Bertrand.  

There are 3 guidebooks, all of them are bilingual English-french: You can find them and order them on their website Omegaroc (https://omegaroc.com/en/climbing-guidebooks/).    

There is one guidebook for sport crags: Falaises de Corse.

And 2 for multi-pitch climbing:

- Bavella – Corsica for the Bavella massif,

- and "Grandes voies de Corse" for the rest of the island.

All the guidebooks are available in digital version on the app OmegaRoc. You can find all info you need on the website Omegaroc (https://omegaroc.com/en/home-2/).  

And don’t be afraid, summer is not too hot to climb even though April-june and September -October can be better specialy for sport climbing. There are both sport crags and multi-pitch routes from the seashore to much higher in the mountains. Some places like Paglia Orba and Ascu Stagnu are almost only climbable in summer.  

Let me know if you want more info and welcome on the island, there is a lot to climb.  

Olivier  

 Tom Valentine 12 May 2022
In reply to Olivier S:

Punta Di Capineru

And some pretty good bouldering .

 OP Kicki 13 May 2022
In reply to Olivier S:

Hi Olivier,

Thanks for good advise. I’ve ordered the crag guidebook at Omegaroc but I’m hesitating on which multi pitch guidebook I should get? We would love to climb in Bavella. I’ve seen fantastic pictures, but I’m afraid it’s too hot in July.  

You also mention that Paglia orba and Ascu are good choices for summer climbing, but these places look pretty hard.  We climb up to 6a/6a+ on gear and up to 6c on bolts. What do you think?

Happy for guidance

 Olivier S 14 May 2022
In reply to Kicki:

Hello Kicki,  

I’m happy that you get the crag guidebook. For the multi pitch one I can give you more details about multi pitch climbing in Corsica. But you can also buy one of the two books and buy extra routes one by one on the app: https://app.omegaroc.com/search

My favorit book is the Bavella one (https://omegaroc.com/en/multi-pitch-climbing-guidebook-corsica-bavella/ ), larger and with many very beautiful pictures and interesting local climbers portraits.    

But to get back to rock faces:  

Paglia orba and Ascu Stagnu are perfect places to climb in July and with amazing landscapes. In Paglia Orba there are only trad routes, many are grade 6a or under. But it’s better to start with easier routes to get familiar with the rock (a conglomerate) and the exposure. La Finch, Le Nid d’Aigle and Surella d’Irlanda are great classics.  

In Ascu Stagnu you will find routes at all grades. Some of them are partially bolted.  

There are also summer routes in the Restonica valley near Corte city. These are very beautiful and well bolted.  

July is not the perfect season to visit Bavella but the massif is huge and extends from 500m to 1700m heigh. There are many routes on north and east faces or high in altitude at all grades, bolted or not… You can climb there for a lifetime or two.  

I hope this can help you  

Olivier  

 OP Kicki 14 May 2022
In reply to Olivier S:

Thank you so much Olivier for great tips! 
Kicki


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