UKC

/ Sardinia Recommendations

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leobold on 21 Jan 2018

I'm planning a trip to Sardinia in September, with a group of people who mostly climb around VS/HVS trad and 6a/6b sport. We are mostly looking to do multi-pitch sport routes, probably around the Ogliastra area.

I went there a few years ago, so I have dug out my copy of Pietra di Luna and already have a few objectives in mind - (various routes at Surtana, including The Sound of Silence; perhaps one of the easy routes at Jurassic Park; the big slabs at Sa Forada 'e sa Ida).

Surtana

Aguglia Goloritzé

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I would also like to have a go at the Aguglia Goloritze, as it looks spectacular and we didn't do it last time I was there - but I seem to remember reading somewhere that the easiest route, Easy Gymnopaedia, has been upgraded to 6c due to some holds breaking off - is anyone able to confirm this? I don't know if attempting to onsight 6c would be the best idea given the grades we are currently climbing.

 

Thanks!

Leo

Elsier on 21 Jan 2018
In reply to leobold:

There is some lovely multi pitch in that grade range in that area.

I recommend Marinaio di Foresta (6a+), great route on a really cool sea pinnacle and a very short walk in.

Lughe e Vida Mia (6a) In the Golo Su Gorrupu gorge is a great adventure, and worth it for the approach through the gorge. I think you can approach from either side. 

Compagni di viaggio (6a+) was also very good (In the same area as Surtana) But the route was only partially bolted so I recommend taking a trad rack too.

If you end up in the South East of Sardinia there are also some fantastic multi pitch at  Masua sea cliffs (Porto Flavia)

 

Toerag - on 23 Jan 2018
In reply to Elsier:

>If you end up in the South East of Sardinia there are also some fantastic multi pitch at  Masua sea cliffs (Porto Flavia)

You mean south west......

To the OP - the Goloritze needle has recently had a tidy up/rebolt and may now be easier. Do a search on here as here is where I probably found the info.

Have a good look for new multipitch routes online as there's very little at 6a in the guides.  I found topos for routes at masua and above the big cave at domusnovas? Check my logbook for the inland ones. The most recent P di L guide has no mutipitch in it I believe.

Elsier on 23 Jan 2018
In reply to leobold:

Yes sorry I meant South West.

The trad and multi pitch in Sardinia are in a separate guidebook. 


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