UKC

Seeking destination for vertical & technical low grade sport

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 SXPembs 17 Feb 2022

Looking for a sport climbing destination with lots of routes in the 6s that are well-bolted, quality, technical, and no steeper than vertical. (I have restrictions from my climbing physio due to an ongoing injury). Multi-pitch welcome! 

Open to anywhere in Europe & Americas, possibly beyond. Season flexible from March-July.

Any ideas?

 AlanLittle 17 Feb 2022
In reply to SXPembs:

Kalymnos isn't all stalactite caves - on the contrary has miles & miles of slabby-to-vertical grey slabs. All very well bolted. Personally I find it pretty generic & samey after the first few hundred metres, but there's certainly plenty of it.

In reply to SXPembs:

Ariege. John Arran's gaff. See http://www.chezarran.com/

Post edited at 10:45
 GDes 17 Feb 2022
In reply to SXPembs:

Hard to imagine anywhere better than Verdon gorge for this

In reply to SXPembs:

Costa Blanca.  Indeed after many trips I started to find it a little tedious specifically because of this.

Al

3
 tjekel 13 Mar 2022
In reply to SXPembs:

south of France... Montagne Ste Victoire, or Dentelles haf lots of slabby stuff.

for July - Grimsel/Susten/Furka, or Ailefroide, and lots of limestone stuff in the Eastern Alps. 

 Ciro 13 Mar 2022
In reply to SXPembs: 

Finale Ligure has a lot of technical, vertical climbs, but depends what you mean by "well bolted" - the classic climbs have good quality bolts that will keep you off the ground, you just have to climb a long way between them.

Slightly younger routes have closer spacing near the bottom of the route, and opening up as you get higher, which is a great balance of security and not having to stop and clip every few moves IMO - and these are often still vertical and techy.

More recent bolting tends to be much more longer gym bolting, but also tends to be overhanging.

 Ciro 13 Mar 2022
In reply to SXPembs:

Closer to home, Portland has miles and miles of very good, well bolted, techy vert climbing.

In reply to SXPembs:

How long is your planned trip, good to know for the number of routes and venues, and if your having physio how many routes a day you're looking for. might help give a more honest overview are areas that could work, as some might be great for a week but not enough for longer.

The area around Briancon might work there are quite a few venues with that routes that fit your requirements especially if you throw in the the routes at Aliefroide (famous granite slabs) and the stuff in the Cerces (if you can do bigger walk in's?) If it's a longer trip it could be combined with some of the venues further south? 

if you have any questions or want to run the the guidebook to look at what really is available for you then drop me a line.

 climbingpixie 13 Mar 2022
In reply to GDes:

Apart from the well-bolted bit! The Verdon Gorge may be a glorious and inspiring climbing destination but the spaced bolting can be quite unnerving, especially on the 6s. I'd also say it's also somewhere to go with a few grades in hand as the situation, the bolting and the style of climbing make the lower grade routes feel tough for the grade.

 Jon Stewart 13 Mar 2022
In reply to GDes:

> Hard to imagine anywhere better than Verdon gorge for this

I can imagine places that are better bolted. If what you're looking for is low grade sport cragging, you're gonna be in for a big surprise...

 Jon Stewart 13 Mar 2022
In reply to climbingpixie:

Snap!


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