UKC

Hi All,

I'm hoping that by September we will be able to start visiting other countries again, so just having a think at the moment, not booking anything just yet. 

I'd like to get away to do sport climbing end of August, early September but not sure where to go? Don't want it to be too hot and my partner and I climb up to 7c, would be good to have a range of grades and styles. I thought about Northern Italy.. Any other ideas please and maybe more details of areas? 

Thanks,  

You will need to get some get some cooling altitude in August, so the Dolomites regions of Northern Italy are fabulous for sports climbing, a great deal of it north facing. This guidebook is very good:

https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/sport-climbing-in-the-dolomites-g...

My personal fav is the Briancon area in France. The modern sports routes there are massively under-rated by Brits, and the geography and beauty of the area is first class. The local guidebook is very detailed and has English translations:

https://boutique.ffme.fr/topo-guide/312-briancon-climbs-haut-val-durance-qu...

To the south of Briancon is Ceuse, which is often a good bolthole if the weather is bad in the mountains.

John C

Frankenjura is perfect in September!  

Hi John, 

Thanks that's really useful! For the Dolomites, what particular area is the best for the sport climbing, I'm just going to have a look where we would have to be based accommodation wise. I don't m ow much about the area.

I love France and haven't looked at Briancon so that's a good idea. I heard that the bolting in France can be a bit scary, is that the case for Briancon?

Thanks! 

Chloe 

Thanks! I'll have a look at this too. It did cross my mind but wasn't too sure. 

Also maybe Arco would be better than the dolomites as it's more single pitch, less big wall as I'm looking for shorter sport routes? 

Hi Chloe,

I live just near Briancon, the bolting here is very good for nearly all venues here, on par with kallymnos and other similar areas, there is the odd older sector that has more spaced bolts etc but not many, it the latest version of the guidebook, and i would be happy to help if you need that advice about sectors.

September is my favorite time to climb, its lost some of the heat from summer and the tourist will have gone home.

there is over 3300 routes across 6 different rock types so lots of options and for the grade you after loads to go at.

let me know if you want any more info or advice.

cheers Rob

Hi Rob, 

That sounds really good and I love France. The flights and accommodation don't look too expensive either. What area would you recommend staying? Briançon itself or somewhere on the outskirts? We usually stay in apartments or holiday homes.

Kind regards 

Chloe 

To get the most out of a trip here you need a car, the area is quite spaced out, with a choice of heights and aspect to deal with what ever the weather is doing. I think the best option is around l'argentiere la bessee and vallouise, this is closest to the venues that would suit you most. and its about in the middle for the whole area, with the Queyras to the south and Briancon to the north. both around 20/30 mins away. I live near l'argentiere and probably the most I drive to climb is 40 mins, but if you did find a bargain in Braincon that's not a major issue maybe just a longer drive to the queyras 1h? Hope that makes sense its had to describe the area with out a map or guidebook.

good local accommodation is 

alpbase.com

alpineplayground (.com i think)

alpsun.com

and there is loads on airbnb etc.

here is some sites with info 

https://klimbingkorns.de/climbing-in-val-durance/

https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/rock-climbing-france-hautes-alps

cheers Rob

This is one of their hard single pitch sport crags... Cogui

...Canazei is probably the best base for that crag.

Yes that's makes sense thanks. Are the crags quite far to approach or is there a variety of close and further away ones? Also what guidebook do you use please?

Thanks so much. 

Cool thanks! I'll have a look at that one and the area as well 😊👍🏼

Finale?  Should be somewhere in the low 20s by that time.  It's got some great climbing, though tough grading, but there's plenty to keep all sorts of abilities happy.  The bolting is mixed, so older stuff con sometimes be a bit spaced (and suspect) but lots of stuff has been rebolted and is very good now.

It's also by the beach so you can climb all day in the lovely forested hills, then wander down to the beach for a swim in the evening!

I was in Arco last year end of August, it varied between 30 and 35°, it's not high up!

...but you probably should go to  Céüse  

This is the guidebook 

https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Media/Guidebooks/France/Briano...

Its a mixed bunch in terms of approach times

have a look at https://fr.climate-data.org/europe/france/provence-alpes-cote-d-azur/brianc...

Likewise for finale at that time of year! Although there are some cooler spots in the hills around Arco if you know where to go.

Ceuse is great. 

Hi Rob,

Where would you fly to if climbing in Briancon? Lyon looks cheaper over all for flights and car hire but is 3 hours away? 

Kind regards 

Chloe 

Turin is the closest airport (about one & half hours drive ) but is in Italy which might be a problem for car hire. In France Grenoble is a bit closer than Lyon but has less flights while Marseille is another option but is also about 3 hours drive.

Another option is by train - Eurostar to Paris, then the night train to Briançon, Argentière etc

Arco in August would be like climbing in a sauna - humid and hot as it's low altitude. Main Dolomites will be much better... There's a lot of climbing, including single pitch but the information for this is mainly in Italian and German. For example: https://www.larivolta.it/guida - this only covers the Agordino region and is hundreds of pages thick. Theres another Cortina, another for Val Gardena, more for Fassa and the area south... absolutely masses. The rockfax really doesn't do sport climbing much justice in this respect as it's not the main focus. It does give a bit of an overview but mainly of the more known northern region, and there is the rest of the Dolomites to discover which is actually much larger than what is covered by the book. 

Hi,

Thanks, looking at it I might consider a road trip stopping off on the way. Jsut looking for the best areas to stop. 

Asturias in northern Spain? Lots of sun shade options. 

Briancon yes. Early September in dollies it can snow. 

Doug ( local who knows his beans) has nailed the transport options.

For the weather this site is easy use and give's you an average,

https://weather-and-climate.com/average-monthly-Rainfall-Temperature-Sunshi...

It says around 8 wet days in September, which I would say is about right, and normally these are spaced out so you don't get stuck with lots in a row. plus most of the venues dry really quick, and there is the odd one that stay dry in rain

Rob, not seen that site before (I used to use a similar function on the MéteoFrance website which seems to have dissappeared or is no longer free to access). Assumming its like other climate sites, a 'rainy day' might be mostly dry (& a sunny day mostly grey). Also see the footnote - "* Data from nearest weather station: Monaco, France (145 KM)."

I also checked it out for climate facts for our local town here, and it provided data for a place in Andorra, some 1500m higher! Needless to say, the temperatures weren't representative!

Haha, I just saw that. I used to use meteofrance as well for that kind of info, I think meteoblue has an option but couldn't find it.

I still think its about right most Septembers are dry and sunny and normally still climbing in shorts and tops off at the start of September.

Oddly Méteoblue is my usual weather site but have never looked at all the options. Have a look at https://www.meteoblue.com/fr/meteo/historyclimate/climateobserved/brian%c3%...

Its data from Embrun, not Briançon but a little closer than Monaco. And again 8 rainy days in September.

Hi Chloe,

I've climbed mostly around the Cortina area in the Dolomites (many options, but some quite old skool), but there is a fab crag in Val Gardena called Tridentina, and another called Sass Dacia in the Alta Badia. 

There are lots of lower lying areas, Like Arco as you mention, but also around Locarno (amazing, and often quite quiet), Val d'Aosta (diverse), and Lecco (a little time worn). But the problem in each of these areas, and especially so in Arco, is the heat and humidity in Summer. Personally I can't cope, so I head higher. Arco is also incredibly busy in summer, even over-run at times. I can't cope with that either, so don't let me put you off if you feel differently.

The other areas I've explored in the last 10 years have been the new climbing areas around Cuneo (often called Andonno), which is a truly amazing area, slightly higher, and incredibly diverse, but you will need some Italian to get by.

I've also travelled extensively across central Switzerland in August, where there are a dozen or more world class crags (happy to supply a list), that are at altitude (1500-2000m) and North facing, but there's a lot of driving, and Switzerland is v. expensive, tho I mostly wild camped.

As regards Briancon, the bolting on the modern crags is exceptional, as is the sheer quality of the climbing (I like new skool, funky, or weird rock rather than old skool crimping). It really is hard to beat as a signal choice location, which is laid back, not too expensive, and doesn't involve huge days in the car. 

If you are Ok with the travelling, you could feasibly link all these areas up, starting in the Dolomites and heading south to Arco as it cools in September and then West across to Ceuse and Briancon either via Locarno, Andonno, or another fine Italian area, the Val di Susa..

Hope this helps,

John C