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/ Sport climbing in the Dolomites

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OliverR17 - on 15 Apr 2018

Hi,

A few friends and I were looking to head out to the Dolomites in September for 5 days of sport climbing, and certainly our plan for one of the days was to try one of the longer multi-pitch sport routes. However I haven't ever been out there and was wondering if anyone on here had any advice or recommendations, particularly for the area? 

I'd be welcome to any suggestions for UK based training, routes, accommodation, gear etc. We're also students (too young for affordable car hire!) so any information about local transport would be golden.

Many thanks,

Oliver

ian caton on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

Check out campsite prices before you go any further.

Camping Dolomiti probably cheapest. Sports climbing within walking distance maybe. 

kenr - on 15 Apr 2018

Unless you're going to try clipping your quickdraws + rope to the steel cable-attachment posts of some well-chosen Via Ferrata route . . .

most of the Sport climbs in the Dolomites are either single-pitch or fairly difficult.

Maybe try the Freja(?) wall somewhere around the Sella group? And some in the Cinque Torre?

Ken

Post edited at 16:47
icnoble on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

Arco is south of the Dolomites and is great for sports climbing, and you wouldn't need a car.

 

Toerag - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

If you want bolt clipping go somewhere else. If you want mountains then do mountain stuff in the Dollies. There is plenty enough bolt clipping to be done in the Dollies, but I don't think your lack of transport will make it easy. There are two crags within 3km of Cortina, everything else is further out.  I stand to be corrected if you find the bus connectivity is good on the roads to the crags. The guide you probably need is 'Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina D'Amprezzo' ISBN 978-88-8314-269-7 

JLS on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

This the nicest sport climbing area with low to mid grade options...

Citta dei Sassi (City of Rocks)

If you could afford a hotel up there at 80eur a night half board then you are sorted. Otherwise, if it's possible to find cheaper accommodation in the surrounding valleys, you could commute by bus to that and various crags other crags. Base options include: Canazei, Arraba , Cortina, Selva, Corvara/Colfosco

The buses aren't very frequent but with careful planning it's possible to get to many crags around Sella Rond and Passo Falzarago for the day.

OliverR17 - on 13:39 Tue

Thank you all for your advice - I'll look into the possibilities and see where that leaves me - probably in a different part of Europe!

 

JLS on 14:50 Tue
In reply to OliverR17:

The Dollies' logistics without a car are a big hassle for a 5 day trip.

The El Chorro might be a better bet as you can get a train from the airport and there is cheap climbers accommodation. Whether the temperatures in September will be manageable is another question...


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