UKC

Hi All!

I'm thinking of going to Norway end of August/beginning of September for sport climbing but struggling to find some info on exactly where to go. I've heard there is lots between Oslo and Bergen but where it the best place to be based and what are the best crags to visit please? Me and my partner climb anything from 6c to 7c redpoint grade.

I am going to buy a guide book but only when I'm sure we're going! Any help would be much appreciated! 

In reply to Chloe:

Flatanger... 

In reply to Chloe:

There are tons of crags and routes from Oslo to Bergen. Lots of routes close to each of those two towns.

Depending on which way you will drive I would espescially mention the small village Stryn with the crag Beachen. And the village of Sogndal with the crag Kvam (has 400 routes) 

You can find good information online, but these guidebooks will give the best info:

Climbing around Oslo : https://www.vpg.no/dvd-bøker/164127/klatrefører-oslo-og-omegn

A guide book with selected crags around Norway: https://www.vpg.no/dvd-bøker/253723/climb-norway-2018

Climbing guide for Sogn og Fjordane covers many good crags on the western side of Norway https://www.vpg.no/dvd-bøker/253679/klatrefører-for-sogn-og-f...

Around Bergen : https://www.vpg.no/dvd-bøker/167642/klatrefører-bergen-bolted...

In reply to Chloe:Rogaland area online guide - brattelinjer.no.

In reply to Chloe:

I've got a couple of sport climbing guidebooks to sell if you're interested.  One is to the whole of Norway

In reply to GDes:

Hi, yes please which ones are they?

All, thanks for your help! There is so many options in Norway its hard to decide where to go! 

In reply to Chloe: Where do you normally climb, what do you like?  What sort of stuff are you looking for? 

In reply to Chloe:

This is a useful resource for checking too:

https://27crags.com/countries/norway

Make sure you find somewhere with overhangs - it rains alot there

In reply to GarethSL:

I asked Adam Ondra about easier (low 7's) routes in Flatanger and he said they're excellent

In reply to wbo2:

I'm looking for only sport climbing and somewhere we can go which is within 3 or 4 hours of an airport as we'd be flying there. Thanks!

Also thanks all for the other info, it all a great help. 

In reply to Chloe:

Can confirm Flatanger has a bunch of great routes in the 7s!

Leftof the big cave at the Hanshalleren sector are some amazing walls with a load of very high quality routes at amenable grades. There are also several other sectors in the Flatanger area - it's not all 8s and 9s in big caves. It's also just a gorgeous place to be.

Think you can reach it within a couple hours drive of Trondheim.

In reply to J B Oughton:

Thanks, that's good info. I've looked at places to stay round there and doesn't look to be many self catering places? 

In reply to Chloe:

Check out "Climb Flatanger" you can camp or bunk. Iirc there are some Airbnb options available too! 

In reply to Chloe:

Another useful site to add to the list

https://www.klatrefelt.no/

and for Bergen in particular:

https://www.bergen-klatreklubb.no/ – Bergen Klatre Klubb publish a pair of guides (sport and trad) to all the Bergen crags, you can see them all on the map here:

https://www.bergen-klatreklubb.no/forere/cragdatabase/geo_alle.php

In reply to joeruckus:

Thanks for that. It looks like Bergen might be the best place to go. Flatanger looks amazing but harder to get to.. 

In reply to Chloe:

Bergen is great though personally I prefer the climbing around Drammen, south of Oslo. It also tends to be much drier there,

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hi Chris, that's good advice thanks. Which guide book is best for that area please?

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Also what kind of style is the sport there? Does it have a range of styles and higher grades please? 

In reply to Chloe:

Type Drammen into the Location box here for a rundown of the area:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thanks, I assume there wasn't much on UKC. 

In reply to GarethSL:

Looking at your profile I see that you're based in Longyearbyen? I'm heading up there to work in a few weeks time Is the climbing wall worth a visit and have you found any rock that's worth climbing up there?

In reply to Chloe:  have a look at the link I sent you... there's a crag called Bersagel.  Slightly overhanging, crimpy. Nice rock as well.  What style do you prefer?

In reply to wbo2:

Thanks will do! I like vertical or overhanging, mostly crimpy and long routes but my partner likes overhanging, big holds, big moves and short routes so looking for a bit of a mix!

Thanks  

In reply to Chloe:

Loads around Oslo and Drammen. Good variety of rock, with granite, gneiss and basalt. It can get a bit humid in summer though. The best and safest time is probably September. The Drammen guidebook is currently out of print but there's a new guidebook expected this year. A fair amount of info on the Drammen Klatreklubb (DKK) website in the meantime. 

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Thanks does the climb Norway national guide cover that area do you know please? 

In reply to Chloe:

I don't own it. That book has nice topos but it's a selected guide that covers the whole Norway. 34 crags, although it does often include all the routes at these crags. If you're trying to focus on one area and wanting to avoid too much travel there are probably better local guides out there. You could probably make do with it for a given area, although you'd be slimming down your options. Kristiansand is another option that you might want to look at. Loads of options in that direction. 

In reply to Chloe:  I have the Kristiansand guide.. not a bad area.  Not sure if there's an online version

I've always fancied a trip to Gygrestolen in Telemark.-

In reply to Chloe:

If you fly in to Trondheim, you should spend a day in Hell. Hell . The main area is covered in Climb Norway and there is a link to a PDF covering a new cliff on the UKC page.

If you find yourself near Oppdal, definitely visit Ishoel Ishoel. Beautiful place with climbing right above a raging river. Also in Climb Norway.

In reply to Chloe:

Hi All,

Thanks for all the advice on the areas to climb. I won't just be going once so all the information is really useful for future trips. I've been in contact with Climb Flatanger and it looks like a good option especially with the variety there! 

In reply to Chloe:

Has anyone stayed at the climb Flatanger house before please? Just wondering what it's like, cleansiness and facilities etc? 

In reply to Chloe: I haven't looked for the area round Flatanger but you might want to have a look thro' Finn.no, the online marketplace for Norway.  Look in the section for 'eiendom', then 'feriehus og hytter til leie'.  You might find other options there.

** I haven't been Flatanger.  So no idea on the house or the climbing. 

In reply to Chloe:

Thanks anyone been to the house? 

In reply to Chloe:

I suspect the house is pretty good. The camping facilities were already good in 2015, and it's only been getting more popular. 

In reply to Chloe:

Also, if you go to flatanger, it makes sense to fly to Trondheim, which means Hell, the various crags around Oppdal and some nice sea cliff climbing in Snillfjord are in too. Finally, you could also head south and mix in some spectacular scrambling. And if the weather is terrible the indoor bouldering centres are pretty good too. Speaking of which, there's some nice bouldering at harbak, which is also very nice.

In reply to JuneBob:

Thanks that sounds good. If anyone else has ideas on where to stay, please let me know! Norway isn't the cheapest of places  

In reply to Chloe:

Why not just wild camp where possible then? I nearly never book accommodation during the summer months. 

In reply to Mr. Lee:

We wouldn't do that because of not having much camping equipment and the weight of taking it all. 

In reply to Chloe:Go looking on finn, as suggested   I haven't looked how much a hytte is to to rent.. how long a stay?

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Sorry, I just saw your reply! I guess your trip has been somewhat delayed but in response to your questions, it's probably best to leave the rock shoes at home and bring the hiking boots

The indoor wall isn't the worst, but is small, busy and only open certain hours!

Regardless, hope your trip ends up happening - its all a bit funky here right now. 

In reply to Chloe:

Have lived here for 20+ years now, I would steer clear of the stuff around Oslo, there is so much other stuff in/around other towns that is really top quality. Oslo crags are at best "medium".

Second the advice you got from Hillman.

Sogn is brilliant, but wet. Kvam can be climbed in rain.

Plenty of variasjon around Stavanger, trad, bolts and brilliant bouldering.

Lofoten needs no introduction.

Kvaløya (Tromsø) similarly varied to Stavanger, also with an alpine aspect (also brilliant sports routes btw!).

Good luck!