/ Sport climbing Sweden

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spacecadetjake - on 14 Dec 2013
Has anyone any info on sport climbing in Sweden? 6b is probably my limit but I would like to show a friend who lives in Sweden how to sport climb so easier grades would be better.

TobyA on 15 Dec 2013
In reply to spacecadetjake: There's loads of crags and loads of info - particularly if you speak swedish but google translate sort of works on as well.

I'd decide where you want to climb then get your local mate to translate anything you don't get.
Droyd on 15 Dec 2013
In reply to spacecadetjake:

Where in Sweden will you be? In the south (ie Malmö/Helsingborg area), there are a couple of small crags - Soffabacken, which has a reasonable amount of decent single pitch, but, as it is located in a forest valley, probably won't be dry until around March, and Kullaberg, which is primarily single pitch trad but has a small selection of sport routes. If the weather is clear, though, it's possible to have a decent day at Kullaberg, and we spent a Sunday in early November there in nothing but T-shirts! There are also some pretty good topos on the website that Toby posted a link to.
I can't really speak for further north, as I've not been there yet, but Bohuslän is the name of the area near Gothenberg which I've heard to be decent - There's a guidebook which is out of print, I believe, and fairly difficult to get hold of, but if you're interested have a look here (admittedly it's about trad, but the camping info etc is still relevant).
TobyA on 15 Dec 2013
In reply to DavidBoothroyd:

I've climbed in Bohuslan a couple of times now and its very much a trad 'heartland'. There are some sports routes around that I've seen, but unless there are whole bolted crags there done since the guidebook was printed, I think its very much the minority. There loads of bolted stuff in and round Stockholm. You can even climb by street light at one crag right in the city centre!
Tuborg on 30 Dec 2013
In reply to spacecadetjake:

There is loads of sport climbing on the west coast within easy reach of Gothenburg. It can be hard to find lots of easy sport routes clumped together in the crags close to the city but if you have a car and the Gothenburg guidebook then you can find loads. Aspen (20min drive from town) is a popular sport area with a good range of grades and great location by a lake. Bohuslän is an hour north of Gothenburg and its not worth going there if you want to sport climb. The main Gothenburg crags of Fjällbo, Utby and Gärdsås are really good to teach climbing but its much more trad. especially in the lower grades.

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