UKC

So my mate has never climbed before and I don't know what I've got to work with until I get him on the rock lol.

He could be terrible so I need some suggestions for scrambles and really easy multipitch we can get to from Chamonix (no car) as a backup plan.

Oh and also any hiking tips for wet days or if we just need a break from climbing.

In reply to Andy S:

look for the "via cordas".  Basically scrambles with a few bolts.  Super safe and fun.  Really good option for someone who has never climbed.

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/794984/en/via-corda-argentiere-via-damou

In reply to Andy S:

If you pick up a copy of Crag Climbs in Chamonix by Burnier (new edition just about to come out) available at Snell Sports in Cham or over the inter web- as mentioned you’ll find some easy bolted scrambles, Via Corda Alpina is 600m and goes from the Valley Bottom to a buvette at the top and easy walk down. A 30m rope and a few Quickdraws will do and you can do it in trainers.

otherwise there are loads of easy things in the guide on the other side of the valley which you can take a cable car up to. Some easy multi pitch near the Brevent cable car which are great fun.

In reply to Andy S:

Btw if you’re camping or renting an air bnb you’ll get a free pass for the valley bus services which will take you pretty well anywhere in the guidebooks via bus and walk/ski lift

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Last year it was reported on here that apparently the via Cordas on that side of the valley (Alpina, Caline, and Princess maybe) were shut down and bolts removed for some reason.  Does anybody know if that is still the case? And/or why?

In any case there is a new higher Via Corda in the Ag. Rouge. above the (also) new Via Ferrata up from Flegere.

For easy scrambles just head for Brevent and scramble north along the ridge crest as far as you like (easy outs anywhere).

The easiest of the multi pitch routes in the Crag Climbs book mentioned above is La Somone with several separate and escapable buttresses linked together.  Good fun, if your mate decides he likes climbing.

In reply to BruceM:

The Alpine club reports that it was vandalised and in May 2017 had not been re equipped. Nothing more up to date than that

In reply to Andy S:

An easy intro to really well bolted multi pitch at Les Gaillands, walk or take the bus out of Chamonix centre. There’s a Buvette for food and drink at the base of the crag. The lower crags can get super busy, but an easy walk around the left side and up through the woods takes you to a number of well bolted quieter crags with easy routes on them.

You could also take the bus from Cham over the Col de Montet to Vallorcine as an easy intro to multi pitch. Lovely spot, easy routes, well equipped and an easy walk from the town square which is well equipped with cafes and bars. I think the train from Cham stops there too

In reply to BruceM: Access from the Flegere lift is not available this summer due to the demolition of the cable car. Not only that, it is forbidden to access the area around the site of the top station of the cable car was due to construction of the new gondola.

Access to Lac Blanc is from the Col des Montets only.

In reply to HammondR:

Wow!  Thanks for that news. 

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Thanks Paul.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I've booked an airbnb. Didn't know we'd get a free bus pass! Who sorts us out with that? The host? 

In reply to BruceM:

How much would I have to pay for this Brevant lift? And others? 

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I did the Voie Caline last August (so 2018) and it was absolutely fine. Nothing had changed on it since I last did it in 2015. Weird. 

In reply to Andy S:

The host usually leaves it for you. It’s associated with the tourist tax that you pay separately when you arrive.

In reply to BruceM:

I did Voie Caline with my daughters at the end of last summer, and it was completely equipped. There were parties on Voie Pincessa too - we met them at the Buvette, and they didn't mention any missing bolts - so I would expect it all to be fine.

You could always pop into the Bureau des Guides next to the church in Chamonix centre to ask - they are very helpful.

Steve

In reply to Andy S:

I never use the lifts on the Aig. Rouge (just walk up from the ground - free) but all prices are here:

https://www.chamonix.net/english/lift-systems/lift-passes/summer-lift-price...

Thanks to the others re updates about the Via Cordas.  Obviously need to ask down at the OHM.  Cheers.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

A local guide I happened across a few weeks ago said that while he hasn't guided those via cordas since the reported vandalism, he knew someone who had last year who reported it had been re-equipped. Obviously that may have changed again.