UKC

Does anybody have opinions on the best guide to pick up for a trip there? Most keen to get on short and long multi pitch and maybe some new routes if anything catches the eye whilst repeating classics. Gradewise i'll probably be climbing easy stuff to E2 (maybe harderif im brave....).

In reply to dunnyg:

The only up to date guidebook on sale now is Moroccan Anti-Atlas (2017) by Steve Broadbent. It's a selective that covers the whole area. The definitive two-volume Tafraout is currently out of print (well, I think there are a few vol 2 left).

In reply to dunnyg:

We used the Steve broadbent guide during our trip 2 weeks ago and it was very good.
We loved the climbing and the area, but ended up climbing a couple of grades below our leading grade at home to ensure we finished the longer routes and got back to the car before it got dark. We also realised it is not an area where you would want to contemplate an accident as it would be very hard or impossible to organise a rescue.

In reply to mountain.martin: That's really good to hear. I will get a copy of the Anti Atlas guide and get planning! How were the temperatures for climbing this time of year?

In reply to dunnyg:

We flew out on 28th October for a week and it was pretty hot we aimed for the shady crags or the ones at higher altitude. Climbing in the sun was ok on easy routes.

We were told it was a hot spell though and it would normally be a bit cooler in early November.

In reply to dunnyg:
We got back yesterday having arrived 4th Nov. At the beginning it was still hotter than usual for first week in Nov. but cooled a little as the days went by. Normally first half of November is dry and warm and a safe bet. Only downsides from a Spring trip are the shorter days (dark at 6) and the fact that it's drier and dustier and browner - no fields of wild flowers or grasses to enjoy.
I'd agree that as things stand the best bet for a guide book is the new Climb Tafraoute single volume selected because it covers the whole area.